Skin under the beard is far too easy to ignore. It’s hidden under a layer of hair that makes it harder to detect dryness and irritation until it’s uncomfortable. Parched, inflamed skin results in flakage otherwise known as beard dandruff. Yes, the same dandruff that sloughs off scalps onto shoulders can fall off the face if proper skin care isn’t practiced. This makes nourishing the skin a key part of a beard care regimen.
Beard dandruff can originate from a number of causes, said Darius Davie, men’s hair stylist and founder of Groom Guy barbershop and salon in Washington D.C. and Palm Beach Gardens, FL. Davie said a lot of the guys in his shops come in with beard dandruff caused by dermatitis, a chronic skin condition, but also stress, environmental factors (like dry, arid weather), or sheer neglect of beard and skin care.
Too much sweat and oil can cause beard dandruff, as well as the complete depletion of the skin’s natural oils from the wrong products. Davie said switching products and changing habits can not only quickly remedy the problem at the first signs of flaking, but also help mitigate the source of the beard dandruff going forward.
“Many men ignore early signs of beard dandruff, which includes itchy stubble, redness, or flaky skin at the follicle,” he said. “There are grooming products on the market chemically designed to prevent and combat beard dandruff,” he said. Preventative products include beard oils, brushes, and exfoliating skincare ingredients. Once a case of beard dandruff has broken out, the fastest-acting remedies look a lot like the best over-the-counter (OTC) solutions for head dandruff, including dandruff shampoos.
The Best Treatments for Beard Dandruff: At a Glance
Nizoral AD Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ketoconazole 1%
What the Experts Say
Beard dandruff and scalp dandruff have a lot in common, said Texas-based dermatologist Dr. Calvin Willams of Essential Dermatology Group. This is largely because both the face and scalp are susceptible to seborrheic dermatitis.
“[This condition] can also affect the beard area, eyebrows, and the nasolabial folds,” said Williams. “Because of this, similar medications that work well for the scalp can also be effective for other parts of the body.” For anyone experiencing beard dandruff, Williams recommended trying scalp remedies as a first line of treatment with an important caveat. “Because many of these products can be very drying, they should be followed up with a good moisturizer after usage to prevent excessive dryness or irritation,” he said.
For Beard Dandruff Prevention
In addition to using a beard brush to physically exfoliate the face, NYC-based dermatologist Barry Goldman of Goldman Dermatology suggested a roster of carrier oils (in one’s beard oil of choice) to help nourish the skin underneath the scruff. Chief among these are jojoba oil, argan oil, sweet almond oil, and avocado oil. These primary carrier oils tend to be rich in antioxidants and many are also anti-inflammatory; it’s no surprise they are commonly used in skin and hair care.
Also, salicylic acid cleansers or serums work well to balance oil levels, keep pores clear, and exfoliate dead skin cells. (Salicylic acid is also a common ingredient in some scalp dandruff shampoos for this very reason. It’s also Davie’s go-to ingredient for prevention.) If the beard is short enough, consider using a hyaluronic acid serum or moisturizer on the skin, too, since it can attract and hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water and in turn prevent over dryness.
Avoid essential oils and beard dyes that use the chemical PPD (para-phenylenediamine) to help minimize contact dermatitis, and keep showers mild and short to prevent depletion of skin oils.
For Beard Dandruff Treatment
Williams said to start with the same active ingredients found in scalp dandruff shampoos, and to feel free using shampoos designed for hair right on one’s beard. The ingredients to look out for are ketoconazole, pyrithione zinc, salicylic acid, coal tar, selenium sulfide, and tea tree oil (which is itself an essential oil, and should only be used in FDA-approved products, never as a standalone oil application). Read more about these options in our SPY guide to dandruff shampoos here. “If the dandruff doesn’t improve or worsens after several weeks of using OTC shampoos, it’s likely time to see a dermatologist who can prescribe more effective, prescription-strength options,” Williams said.
Davie said to incorporate a beard brush into one’s nightly regimen during treatment, too, in order to brush away flakes and help with future prevention. “A beard brush will be one of the best instruments to tackle those tough areas,” he said.” It captures all the spots our fingertips miss regularly.”
Best Products for Treating and Preventing Beard Dandruff
Nizoral AD Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ketoconazole 1%
The single best treatment for active beard dandruff is going to be the same shampoos that treat scalp dandruff. That said, there’s no single universal solution for every case of beard dandruff, so it’s important to understand the root cause of one’s own flaking. When SPY asked him to pick the single best product for treating a large portion of cases (for scalp, and thus for the beard too), Williams picked Nizoral’s shampoo, which contains the active ingredient ketoconazole.
“Ketoconazole is proven to be very effective against the fungi that are involved in dandruff, and this 1% formulation is readily available over the counter,” he said. Most people should be able to tolerate it,, but be sure to keep skin moisturized after the fact with a facial cream or beard oil. We also recommend anyone discontinue use after the dandruff is gone and switch to a preventative strategy because of the intensity of the active ingredients.
King C. Gillette Beard Oil
Key Ingredients: Argan oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia seed oil
How It Works: These ultra-nourishing ingredients can seep past the beard hairs, unlike many lotions and balms, in order to moisturize and fortify the skin.
There’s More: The oil can also soften and condition beard hairs, reducing things like split ends and beard itch. The longer the beard, the more drops you’ll use per application. Use a beard comb to distribute in fuller beards.
Smooth Viking Boar Bristle Beard Brush & Comb Set
Materials: 100% natural boar bristles, pearwood
How It Works: These durable, sturdy brushes can reach skin through even the fullest of beards to exfoliate skin and detangle neck nests.
There’s More: While boar-bristle brushes certainly aren’t vegan, almost all are cruelty-free in that the boars have their hairs trimmed, not unlike sheep being shorn.
Neutrogena Oil-Free Face Wash with Salicylic Acid
Key Ingredient: Salicylic acid
How It Works: Salicylic acid can seep into the pores to clear out excess oil and trapped skin cells, and to mitigate both oil and dry skin at the surface of the skin, too.
There’s More: This is one of the hero ingredients in scalp dandruff remedies, too.
Derma-E Tea Tree and Vitamin E Relief Cream
Key Ingredients: Tea tree oil, vitamin E, aloe vera
How It Works: The anti-inflammatory and antiseptic powers of the key ingredients in this cream act quickly on contact to reduce dandruff caused by excessive dryness or irritation (and to calm skin simultaneously).
There’s More: This one is both a face and body moisturizer, so use it on dry or inflamed skin anywhere.
Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum
Key Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid
How It Works: Draws moisture into the skin and holds up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, keeping skin hydrated and firm.
There’s More: This will work wonders for the entire face, not just the skin under the beard.
Frequently Asked Questions About Beard Dandruff
Should I be concerned about beard dandruff?
Beard dandruff won’t likely pose any long-term threats to the health of your skin and facial hair, but it’s important to treat it right away, and to take measures towards future prevention. Typically, it’s the sign of seborrheic dermatitis, which causes itching, inflammation, and the flaking associated with beard dandruff and scalp dandruff.
Will beard dandruff go away if I shave?
The act of shaving won’t make beard dandruff go away since it’s not doing anything to treat the underlying conditions that caused dandruff in the first place. That said, shaving will make it easier to nourish the skin as opposed to having to address the problem by applying products through the facial hair. However, it’s easy to treat beard dandruff without having to shave; consider washing the beard with a dandruff shampoo that includes an active ingredient like ketoconazole, pyrithione zinc or salicylic acid and nourishing it with beard oil (as well as moisturizer, if the beard isn’t too full to reach the skin).
What causes beard dandruff?
Beard dandruff could be the result of a fungal infection from a lack of hygiene, or dehydration from the lack or depletion of skin nourishment. It can also be caused by environmental factors, stress, hormones, or a contact allergy from beard dye, fragrance, essential oils, or more. If there’s any uncertainty or concern about the cause of beard dandruff, it’s important to see a board-certified dermatologist to properly diagnose the problem. However, most cases are treatable (and preventable) at home by using proper nourishing products, and/or products with active ingredients to counter fungal infections or inflammation.
Can you use dandruff shampoo on your beard?
Yes, the skin underneath the beard will tolerate the scalp shampoos that also target scalp dandruff. They can be very drying on skin, though, so be sure to moisturize after the shower, using facial moisturizer and/or beard oil—whatever it takes to nourish the skin beneath the facial hair.