About Adam Hurly, Grooming Writer at SPY.com – SPY https://spy.com Men's Style, Health, Grooming, Tech, Sports Fri, 11 Aug 2023 16:07:40 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 https://spy.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/cropped-spy_favicon.png?w=32 About Adam Hurly, Grooming Writer at SPY.com – SPY https://spy.com 32 32 178930292 The Informant: Entomologist Bug-Repellent Serum From Heretic https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/heretic-natural-bug-repellent-1202972305/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/heretic-natural-bug-repellent-1202972305/#respond Tue, 15 Aug 2023 18:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202972305 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

There are few worse feelings than being feasted on by mosquitos with no defense. To make matters worse, the options for protection consist of sticky, noxious sprays, iffy “invisible” fences, or candles with limited reach. I’m always prepared with sprays and plenty of bug-repellant outlet plugs on vacation, but the former always makes me anxious. 

I’m not too worried about this stuff usually — I use aluminum-packed antiperspirants and chemical sunscreens, after all — but the bug sprays don’t sit right. Maybe it’s the overwhelming smell of citronella, or the goopiness that they give skin — either way, I loathe applying them anywhere on my body, especially my face. Enter: Heretic’s duo of organic bug repellents that are both rich in essential oils and worth the pretty penny they cost. 

There’s The Entomologist Serum, a pure-oil blend, as well as The Entomologist Spray, which combines sugarcane alcohol, water, and a roster of essential oils (The Entomologist Spray). They have distinct scents, but both products contain cedarwood, geranium, and thyme oils, as well as rosemary, lemongrass, peppermint, cinnamon, and clove oil. 

The smells of both are neutral, pleasant even, when compared to the olfactory experience of most bug sprays. 

More importantly, both products blend in beautifully. The serum in particular doesn’t weigh down the skin. It’s an oil that is labeled as a serum, but the soybean base absorbs and doesn’t leave you feeling greasy and slick. 

I stop at my neck when applying it, since I’ve got acne-prone skin and soybean oil has a high comedogenic rating. In other words, it can clog pores more easily than other ingredients, so for me, this one is purely a neck-down product. 

Compared to the average bug spray one can buy at Costco, this serum is expensive. The container isn’t very large, either, (just 1 fluid ounce) so I save it for close-to-home use when the windows are open or we’re out on the balcony and I don’t want to lather up in chemicals. It’s great for ankle protection on summer walks, or arm and neck defense when you’re just in a t-shirt. 

I use the spray more generously. It’s 1.7 fluid ounces. and massages into the skin easily so it can cover a lot of real estate. I like to apply it to facial blind spots, like around the ears and along the jawline — anywhere a sneaky bugger might post up without my noticing. 

Due to its alcohol base, I don’t spritz it around the center of my mug, at risk of drying the skin out. It’s not drying on other body parts, though; it’s just that the face is more susceptible to this stuff. 

The Entomologist Bug Repellent Serum

Heretic "The Entomologist" Serum 100% Organic Bug Repellent

Heretic’s “The Entomologist” Serum is 100% organic bug repellent, designed to absorb quickly into the skin without causing a greasy or irritated feeling.


Does it work? Yes, and I’m impressed. So far, I’m bite-free at the height of feasting season, after a month of steady use. 

The big caveat is I’m nearing the end of my $45 supply after only a few months, and we’re not through summer quite yet. Heretic’s products are expensive, but they’re nice to have on hand when hosting friends in the evening for drinks or balcony chats. It’s much nicer to offer them this than, say, a DEET spray that they’ll feel all evening. With Heretic’s two options, I don’t actually feel the need to shower it off ASAP; one feels like a nice body oil, and the other feels like a really luxe, nourishing hand sanitizer. 

You might also like: Diptyque’s citronella body spray. This product isn’t budget-friendly either, at $58 for just over 3 ounces, but it has the perfect lemongrass-geranium scent in a lightweight spray that also doesn’t feel goopy on skin. Is it citronella-y? Yes, per the lemongrass. But is it the best expression therein? Oh yes. And the 3.4-ounce bottle should last a while.

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The Informant: Narcyss Sheet Masks https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/narcyss-sheet-mask-review-1202971579/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/narcyss-sheet-mask-review-1202971579/#respond Thu, 10 Aug 2023 18:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202971579 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

I’ve worked from home for nearly eight years, and have managed to deflect about 98% of the meetings requested of me. Despite fancying myself as the grooming expert, I don’t like having to “look presentable” when I’m not leaving my house. But every so often, a mandatory video call requires me to look my best, and I prioritize a few key skincare products: concealer, eye cream, and a serum or mask that makes my skin glow. And lately, that last category is Narcyss’ (literally) brilliant sheet masks, or Le Fix Emergency Facial Mask – Intense Hydration as Narcyss calls them. 

The name is spot on. These emergency facial treatments can have your skin looking its healthiest and most radiant in just 10 minutes. They quickly remedy severely dry skin or a dull complexion in the same way eye patches can reduce dark circles, depuff, and firm. They drown your skin with hyaluronic acid and bamboo extract, both of which help maintain the added hydration and nourishment throughout the day. 

They come in different varieties with distinct benefits: detoxing, hydrating, firming, and exfoliating. The Le Fix Intense Hydration masks leave skin photo-ready with a “dewy” complexion that’s unmistakable. I know that many men don’t necessarily see the benefit of having dewy/glowy/brilliant/bright skin, but I can assure you, that’s when it looks its healthiest. It’s also distinct from having greasy skin, where the sebum from your pores turns you into a bike reflector. With the Narcyss’ mask, the light catches your skin at every angle, and makes it glisten.

I suggest using the Narcyss mask in the morning, after cleansing, so you don’t sleep away the same-day benefits. Narcyss is also one of the few brands who has separated their sheet masks into two pieces so men with facial hair don’t waste the lower half on a sticky beard. One half can stick to the forehead, nose, and cheekbones, and you can massage the serum from the rest of the mask beneath your whiskers as best as possible. The sachet has lots of extra serum inside, too, so don’t let it go to waste. Tip it upside down to catch the serum and massage it into your lower face, neck, hands, ashy elbows, and knees.

This serum feels denser than most popular morning serums, but it’s breathable, so it won’t suffocate your skin. That said, Narcyss’ serum has a lingering presence; like, I still feel it hours later, which is probably why my skin stays glowy many hours after each use. 

They’re excellent for a last-minute, “emergency” reset, but I wouldn’t recommend them for daily use because of the elevated price tag. The cost is $29 for 3 masks which is well above the standard $2 single-use masks available in the CVS checkout line.

If you have daily Zoom meetings or are a serial dater, then having brilliant skin should be achieved via other means. I recommend nightly retinol use, daily SPF defense, routine chemical exfoliation, and a good Vitamin C serum. I know it all adds up, but those things will give you 30-90 days’ use each, and you can expect incredible results after about 90 days — just be sure to keep it up after the fact if you want to maintain results.

Even with a good regimen in place, there are occasional emergencies. Hey, I’m the grooming expert and if I experience them, so will you. I’m stocked on my Le Fix masks, and wholeheartedly endorse the same for you.

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Tactical Fitness: Every Treatment for Male Hair Loss, Broken Down by Cost-Benefit https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/hair-loss-treatment-for-men-1202969638/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/hair-loss-treatment-for-men-1202969638/#respond Sat, 29 Jul 2023 21:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202969638 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

Eighty percent of men experience some form of hair loss at some point in their lifetime. Genetics have a say in how soon, how quickly, how severe, and in what pattern each person experiences hair loss, but it comes for every guy eventually. 

Dr. Jeannette Graf, a dermatologist and Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Mt Sinai School of Medicine, said that one’s testosterone levels aren’t the precise thing to blame, either; rather, it’s the hair follicles’ sensitivity to DHT, or dihydrotestosterone, a testosterone byproduct that accelerates hair loss. It gathers at the follicles, shrinks them, and shortens the growth cycle of hairs. Most men’s hair loss treatments are aimed at stopping and/or reversing this exact process. What varies is how quickly they’re able to do so, and at what cost.

What the Experts Say

Early intervention is important, no matter how severe one’s hair loss is or may be. “By the time a man is 30, there’s a high probability that he’s already noticed thinning in some areas,” said Graf. “This is why taking preventative measures by your late 20s is the safest bet especially if you know you’re prone to hair loss genetically.” 

If treatment starts after visible signs of loss, then it is only possible to revive those follicles that have gone dormant in the past year or two. Hair lost at the crown is possible to bring back, while hair lost to recession is not. (Again, genetics dictate what types of hair loss one experiences and how aggressively.)

Once treatment starts, Graf said to wait 3-6 months for visible results, and if one is using it preventatively, to trust that it’s working. She said results will vary depending on how severe the initial hair loss was, but keeping up with treatments is important so hair loss doesn’t resume. 

In recent years, the number of men’s hair loss treatments available has only increased and gotten more effective. Keep reading to learn the cost-benefit of each one, with insights from dermatologists and surgeons.

Most Accessible and Cost-Effective:

Minoxidil and Finasteride

Oral and topical options abound—with one serious warning.

With expertise from board-certified dermatologists Rina Weimann of Schweiger Dermatology in North Wales, PA, and Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali of Hudson Dermatology and Laser Surgery in NYC.  

Minoxidil and finasteride are usually mentioned hand in hand, as they’re generics for drugs that emerged at the same time: Rogaine and Propecia. The popularity of these two methods grew thanks to telemedicine sites like hims, Ro, and Keeps, but these medicines are also available through dermatology clinics, and minoxidil is available over the counter. Some studies about finasteride have shown it can cause side effects related to sexual health including decreased libido and erectile dysfunction. If these symptoms start after beginning usage, speak with a urologist right away. 

Until recently, the oral form of finasteride and topical form of minoxidil were the most popular amongst consumers. Recently, the script has flipped, and topical finasteride’s shorter list of side effects has made it more popular and oral minoxidil has become the preferred version because it’s more effective.  

Minoxidil is a vasodilator that helps increase hair follicle fortification so they can better withstand DHT. It also increases the amount of time hair spends in its growth phase, the overall effect being more hairs on the head at a given time. There are two formula concentrations, 5% and 2%, and Dr. Weimann recommends both male and female patients use the 5% formulation. 

Typical Cost: Topical Minoxidil can be as low as $3/month, oral minoxidil is not available over the counter since it’s not FDA-approved 

Time Commitment: Short amounts of time, but often. Apply topical minoxidil around the scalp twice daily. (Morning and night are the easiest intervals.) Take oral minoxidil once daily.

Minoxidil against white background

Minoxidil

How minoxidil works: Minoxidil is a vasodilator, which means it opens up the blood vessels and improves nutrient delivery. In terms of hair retention, this means the follicles get much more fortification and can better withstand the threat of DHT. Minoxidil increases the amount of time hair spends in its growth phase, and shortens the amount of time spent in resting phases. (So hairs stay anchored longer and grow back sooner; the overall effect is that more hairs are on the head at a given time.) Men should use the 5% formula, while women are advised to use 2%. (Dr. Weimann recommends both male and female patients use the 5% formulation as she finds it more effective.) Minoxidil is especially advised for people experiencing thinning around the crown.

Typical cost: Topical minoxidil can cost as low as $3/month (like from Kirkland/Costco). Oral minoxidil is also extremely inexpensive, but cannot be purchased over the counter since it’s not cleared by the FDA. It’s quite easy to obtain from dermatologists and will not cost much. (It is the generic for Loniten, also a vasodilator, and is taken daily in 1.25 mg tablets.) Ro sells it for $30/month as well, though a local doctor’s office can prescribe it for much cheaper.

Time commitment: Apply topical minoxidil twice daily around the scalp. (Morning and night are the easiest intervals.) Oral minoxidil is taken once daily.

Chief complaints: Topical minoxidil can make some hair a little tacky. Oral minoxidil can increase hair growth all around the body— depending on one’s definition of #bodgoals this could be a benefit. Minoxidil will also cause initial shedding in the first months; this is natural and should be endured; it’s effectively re-starting each of those hairs’ growth cycles. It’s likely that only the minoxidil user will notice the excessive shedding; it’s not noticeable to others.


hand holding hims topical finasteride & minoxidil against cream background

Finasteride

How finasteride works: Finasteride directly targets DHT. It inhibits the conversion of testosterone into DHT, effectively preventing any shrinking of hair follicles in the first place. Topical finasteride more closely targets DHT’s role in the scalp and follicles and has less of an impact on its DHT’s presence throughout the body than oral finasteride. Finasteride is especially advised for people experiencing a hairline recession.

Typical cost: A non-branded prescription through a local dermatologist might cost $10 or $15 per month with insurance. (Check GoodRx to get the best deal in any area.) Chic telemedicine sites might charge 3-5 times that amount. Topical finasteride is harder to provide a precise price for, because many of the readily available formulas today are actually hybrids of minoxidil and finasteride (like Keeps and hims). As such, they can run upwards of $60 per month but also negate the need to take both drugs separately. Some standalone topical finasteride options do exist, like through XYON.

Time commitment: Finasteride is taken once a day, whether orally or topically.

Chief complaints: Here’s a very important caveat for finasteride: One study reports that 2.1-3.8% of finasteride users can experience sexual side effects, either through decreased libido or with difficulty achieving erections. Other studies promote topical finasteride as a way to get the benefits of the drug without the side effects (since it isn’t as widely circulated in the blood). If these side effects start, speak immediately with a dermatologist and consider switching to topical or staying away from finasteride. In most cases, side effects should go away soon after treatment stops.


The Doctors’ Take on Minoxidil and Finasteride

Bhanusali considers minoxidil the gold standard for hair loss treatments. As for choosing between oral and topical routes, it depends on the patient. “Topical is fine if you are consistent. The main issue is that many aren’t (which I can understand). Oral minoxidil is a great option but there are always more side effects with oral meds vs. topical.” (Again, while rare, minoxidil does have side effects as a vasodilator, so people with heart or blood pressure concerns should be cautious, and anyone on existing vasodilator medicines should absolutely avoid it.)

For anyone interested in a compound topical minoxidil/finasteride product (a singular product with both medicines), Weimann reminds that topical use is usually not as effective as oral options. So, while it’s likely someone will achieve success with a hybrid topical product, it may not be quite as effective if they were to take daily minoxidil and/or finasteride pills. “The role of topical minoxidil and finasteride may be useful when it comes to maintaining hair growth after starting oral finasteride and/or oral minoxidil,” she said. “For those interested in not being on an oral medication long-term, using the topical compounded minoxidil and finasteride in clinical studies has been shown to promote continued hair growth and minimize hair shedding after discontinuation of an oral form of the medication.” So, consider starting with oral finasteride at the very least (alongside oral or topical minoxidil), and assuming no side effects, wane off of it after a couple of years (just as our writer did).


Effective But Expensive Upgrades:

PRP (Plasma Injections) and LLLT (Laser Caps)

Costly treatments that bear fruit. One, in particular, is worth the investment.

With expertise from Dr. Alan J. Bauman, Founder, CEO and Medical Director of Bauman Medical Hair Transplant & Hair Loss Treatment Center

Two other common hair loss treatments that are often mentioned together are platelet-rich plasma (PRP) and low-level laser therapy (LLLT). However, they aren’t similar at all; it’s more so that these two used to be treatments that required visits to the doctor, and now they’re available via convenient, at-home devices. 

PRP

How PRP works: At a PRP session, you give a couple of vials of blood at a dermatology or hair restoration clinic, and then it’s placed in a centrifuge to separate the plasma out. This plasma contains a person’s unique growth factors, which can be injected into the scalp to give follicles some serious muscle (just as growth factors can be injected into joints for tissue repair or at the site of wounds for thorough recovery). “The powerful growth factors in PRP are chemical bio-signals utilized by the body for tissue regeneration and repair,” says Bauman. “Many of the growth factors and other signals stored inside platelets are utilized by the body to stimulate blood flow and collagen production and are also implicated in signaling the anagen (growth) phase of the hair follicle.” 

Typical cost: A single PRP can range from $1,000-$3,500 per session, depending on the tech and equipment, skill level of the doctor/clinic, and location

Time commitment: Not all PRP treatments are created equal, Bauman said. Most will require patients to come in monthly for three consecutive months (and up to six months) to enjoy benefits that last up to 18 months, while more advanced and sophisticated options allow a single dose to last 10-18 months. However, PRP sessions will need to resume indefinitely in order to keep seeing results. The frequency of each person’s visits will vary based on their needs and their doctors’ advice. A single session doesn’t take long—between 30 minutes to an hour to allow for blood withdrawal, the plasma extraction, and the injections.

Chief complaints: The cost, of course. Also, it can be a little uncomfortable having a syringe punch at the scalp dozens of times and then endure a few days of fuzzy numbness up there. (No drinking in the days leading up to or following.)

LLLT Bauman TURBO Laser Cap against white background

LLLT

How LLLT works: By sending low-energy red and near-infrared laser light into the scalp, LLLT stimulates tissue regeneration and follicular virility. The wavelengths of these lights are between 600–950 nanometers, which are fine enough to penetrate skin without any side effects. LLLT accelerates the growth phase of hair and also prolongs the growth phase (before hairs enter resting and shedding phases), and it shortens the amount of time hair spends in its resting phase. Studies also suggest that LLLT boosts circulation in the scalp, and might even reduce the accumulation of DHT around the follicles. 

While LLLT used to be a clinical treatment, at-home devices are now available. The at-home devices are less powerful, but because users can use them more often at home the benefits are the same. 

Typical cost: Clinical treatments can cost thousands of dollars over the course of a year. “Before at-home devices were available, we charged $4000 annually for treatments 3 times per week for 30 minutes per treatment,” Bauman says. Now his office only sells an at-home device, which might have a high price tag ($5,200) but it pays for itself after a year and a half of use. Usually, the cost of an at-home device is based on the number of diodes it has, as well as the intensity of the light it emits, plus things like product design and material quality. Some lower-cost options hover closer to $1,000.

Time commitment: Clinical sessions might require 30 minutes as many as three times per week, for at least 6 months (or ongoing for routine upkeep). At-home options might require the same cadence, although some devices are intended to be used for just 5 minutes daily (like Bauman’s) in order to match those clinical results. 

Chief complaints: It can be hard to incorporate LLLT into one’s routine, no matter if done at home or in a clinic. And the price is daunting too, though it starts to look more attractive when weighing out the longevity of a device versus what clinical treatments might cost.


The Doctor’s Take on PRP and LLLT

Bauman typically recommends multi-therapy treatments for his patients—that is, pairing things like PRP and LLLT with one another, or with minoxidil and/or finasteride. “In order for you to know exactly what treatment is working, how well it’s working, and what areas of your scalp are responding, you need to have regularly scheduled, accurate measurements of hair density and hair caliber, including Hair Mass Index evaluations,” he said. 

At-home LLLT might actually be the less expensive option compared to minoxidil and finasteride in the long run, Bauman said. “While minoxidil and finasteride may get better results for some patients versus LLLT, the cost for those drugs is ongoing, plus there may be side effects for some patients. In those cases, LLLT is a better option and it’s 100% drug-free and side-effect free.” He adds that getting a high-quality at-home device with a lifetime warranty is one of the best investments anyone can make for their hair retention.


The Final Frontier, With Fluctuating Costs: Hair Transplants

These actually look great now. Just don’t consider it a “last resort”. 

With expertise from Dr. William Yates, Founder of Hair Transplantation and Restoration Clinic in Chicago.

How Hair Transplants Work: Fullness is achieved by taking follicles (also known as “grafts”)  from the back and sides of the head—which aren’t genetically predisposed to shedding, unlike the hair on top of the head. The grafts are extracted individually and no longer leave permanent scars. Then they’re sorted according to each graft’s growth count (between 1-4 hairs per follicle) and implanted individually on top of the head, at a precise angle to mimic natural appearance. Yates doesn’t advise getting more than 3,000 grafts per session, though that’s enough for most people to get desired coverage. Some people will get two or even three separate transplants spread across 3-6 months if they need more grafts; having two transplants is usually the limit before the back and sides start to look too sparse. (Yates usually caps things between 6-10K grafts per patient.)

It’s also important to have healthy and ample “donor” hair in order to achieve realistic results, says Yates. And guys need to be realistic about what’s feasible. Hairs can then be extracted from the neck and chest, but the quality of hair differs with these, and can only be used to visually “fill in” the hair up top. “How far is too far?,” you may ask yourself if you end up at this point.  “Chest and body hair generally does not produce quality hair on the scalp,” Yates said. “Underarm and pubic hair can be used, too, but beard hair is the second best option [after actual head hairs].”

Calling hair transplants a “treatment” is a bit of a stretch. They aren’t a conclusive solution, nor are they a last resort for people whose loss is extremely progressed. Rather, hair transplants are best performed on people who have enough hair up top to help “fill in” as opposed to one giant blanket cover. They’re also only recommended for people who have been taking other treatments (and have seen success) for a year or more, so that the canvas is as naturally full as it can be prior to the procedure.

Also, since the transplanted hairs cannot thin and fall like the native hairs up there, it’s important to continue previous treatments following the transplant. Think of it like this: If treatments are discontinued, then regular male-pattern hair loss will continue, leaving behind just the transplanted hairs indefinitely. In this way, a hair transplant is a commitment to a lifetime of hair loss treatments.

Lastly, for any curly hair patterns (especially coarse, coiled hair), it’s important to visit a doctor who’s practiced in the transplantation of your particular curl pattern (and advertises such). 

Typical cost: The cost of hair transplants varies wildly based on the number of grafts, the technology used, the experience and reputation of the clinic/surgeon, and often location. Often, a transplant in Manhattan NYC or Beverly Hills will certainly be more expensive than one in Oklahoma City. But the doctor may also be more practiced and have access to newer technologies. Many people will travel to cosmetic surgery hotspots like Mexico and Turkey, too, where the density of doctors and quality of care can keep pace with large US markets, but at a fraction of the cost. What costs $8,000-$20,000 in the US might range from $2,000-$8,000 in Istanbul, for example (and might even include hotel/car transfers). 

Time commitment: Aside from pre-transplant exams or consultations, the procedure usually lasts 6-8 hours and will also require a next-day appointment to undress the wounds and check on the scalp’s reaction. Patients will be given adequate antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and painkilling meds so that the process is painless (they also get light local anesthesia during the procedure itself, which makes the 6-8 hours feel like one or two). Most people can return to work the next day if they want to, but they’ll look odd and should at least stay home for a few days to recover while any swelling subsides and the wounds scab over.

Transplanted hairs will fall within a month of implantation, and then regrow within 4-6 months. Yates says the first sprouts should reappear in two months, though, with all of them fully expressed within a year. In this first month though, avoid direct water pressure or hot water on the scalp, and direct sun exposure and intense sweating. Expect some compromises in daily life until the transplanted hairs begin to fall out.

Chief complaints: Where to begin? While the results these days are fantastic (spoken firsthand by this writer), it’s just an inconvenient and awkward process, from the facial swelling to the slog that is waiting for the hairs to grow back, not to mention the itch in the month or two after the procedure. It can be taxing to think of a lifetime of hair loss treatments, too, but if a full head of hair is important, then it’s absolutely worth it. Don’t skimp on a cheap doctor either, but do weigh international options if local prices feel out of range. 

The Doctor’s Take on Hair Transplants

Yates stresses the importance of using other treatments before committing to a hair transplant. These treatments will also enhance the results: “I always encourage patients to take or use something to help stabilize hair loss due to male pattern baldness,” he said. “A commitment on the client’s part to use a non-surgical treatment will help their overall density as long as possible. We don’t recommend stopping the non-surgical treatments such as finasteride, minoxidil, LLLT or PRP after a transplant.” He recommends taking as many of these non-surgical treatments as one is willing to take; there is no harm in pairing all four of the above options.

Hair transplants may meet their match from emerging technologies in coming decades, Yates said. And other treatments could become obsolete, too. “Regenerative medicine with stem cell therapy is already being used for anti-aging and hair loss with success. Genetic manipulation is a potential in the future, too, where the genes for baldness are deleted entirely.”


How to Proceed: SPY’s Recommendation

Given the above insights from these surgeons and dermatologists, here is the best recommendation for proceeding with hair loss treatments:

1. Start as early as possible (mid-20s onward) with minoxidil and/or finasteride. Gauge the response to these medicines, especially monitoring oral finasteride use for potential side effects. Use generic non-branded prescriptions for the least expensive approach. 

While oral versions of both medicines will yield better results, doctors do suggest switching to topical options after this same onboarding period as a more targeted way of maintaining results (and while minimizing potential side effects associated with oral options). 

2. Introduce LLLT in the mid-30s, if it’s in the budget. Get an at-home device. It’s expensive, yes, but is a terrific way to keep follicles fortified for the decades ahead. While a $5,000+ device might feel especially costly, some in the $1,500-3,000 range can still produce good results. 

Continue using minoxidil/finasteride alongside LLLT.

3. Add PRP if you’re mega-rich. It’s expensive. It works, yes, but it’s SPY’s least-favorite option on this list from a cost-benefit perspective. 

4. Only consider a transplant after 1-2 years of minoxidil and/or finasteride use. It’s important to see “the full potential” of your hair before resorting to surgical (and expensive) means. Shop around for ideal prices both domestically and abroad, but only choose a clinic with an excellent reputation—and not just one that they are advertising for themselves. Do the research to really find out.

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The Best Dandruff Combs for Minimizing Shoulder Flakes https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/dandruff-comb-1202958548/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/dandruff-comb-1202958548/#respond Sun, 18 Jun 2023 23:41:49 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202958548 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

Nobody wants to be the guy with visible dandruff peppered throughout his strands and all over his shoulders. Dandruff shampoos with clinical-strength ingredients and at-home dandruff remedies are the best way to fix the root of the problem (and to mitigate it, too), and a dandruff comb is a great back-pocket tool to have in the arsenal in case of a flare up. 

Dandruff combs are designed with distinct purposes in mind. They’re not lice combs, nor are they exfoliating hair brushes used to shampoo the scalp. Lice combs have very fine teeth for catching all of the tiny lice eggs, and shampoo brushes are plastic, waterproof, and designed to be used in the shower while cleansing. Dandruff combs can look like combs or brushes with exfoliating hair or nylon bristles, but their ultimate goal is tending to skin rather than hair or hair follicles. 

“The main reason to use a dandruff comb is to help loosen and remove scaly clumps of dead skin that are often associated with dandruff,” said Dr. Jaimie DeRosa of DeRosa Center Plastic Surgery and Med Spa in Boston and Palm Beach, FL. Add to that their ability to spot-check any flakes in the strands, and their use cases are covered.

Dandruff combs don’t treat dandruff or solve the problem. But they’re a great way to tend to the skin between treatments with a heavy-duty dandruff shampoo or another regimen. As DeRosa’s said, they’re also more effective at removing flakes before a date night or the workday than the average wide-bristled hairbrush. No comb will stop dandruff from happening, but it can clear it out for some same-day superficial peace of mind. (Just try not to scratch the scalp throughout the day, either, to prevent other flakes from getting tossed up into the strands.)

What the Experts Say

A dandruff brush’s effectiveness hinges on the material it’s made out of. 

Vancouver-based dermatologist Dr. Allison Sutton of West Dermatology recommends using soft-bristled combs — effectively, dandruff brushes, even going so far as recommending a toothbrush for the task. A brush like that can be more exfoliating than something with metal or plastic teeth. She also advised against using the brush as an exfoliator, marking another distinction between these brushes and other hair care tools, and emphasized keeping any dandruff removal gentle

Barber Brandon Faulk of Church Barber in San Francisco prefers using nylon plastic combs for dandruff removal on his clients. “Nylon offers proper softness and elasticity to the user,” he said. “They are best used with wet hair and can also help exfoliate the scalp.” Pick-style combs are effective for fine hair types whose strands might glide through wider options, and those same picks can help spot-check stray flakes in longer strands, too. 

Regardless of material, Sutton advises against diving right in with a comb or brush. “If someone is looking to remove some of the dandruff from their scalp, it can be helpful to first loosen some of the scale with mineral oil by applying it to the scalp and letting it sit for a few minutes,” Sutton said. “Then, using that soft bristle comb or toothbrush, the scale can be gently removed.” Using the fingers for a light massage can be gentler than a comb, and may be better for very inflamed or irritated scalps. She added that any scale caused by seborrheic dermatitis that seems too thick or adherent should not be brushed away, and should instead be examined by a board-certified dermatologist.

DeRosa recommended using dandruff combs between washing or treating the hair and scalp with anti-dandruff shampoos or natural home remedies. “The downside of dandruff combs is that they can make an already inflamed, irritated scalp worse,” she added, echoing Sutton’s urge to keep things gentle. And she emphasized that dandruff combs do not treat the underlying common cause of dandruff, which is usually an overgrowth of fungus.

What’s the ROI?

This isn’t necessarily a comb that is going to be deployed every single day for beautifully coiffed hair or polished slick-backs. So, shop at the lower end of the price spectrum when it comes to dandruff combs and brushes to get a good return on investment. Many are under $15, which is a perfectly fine price point for a product of this caliber. Brushes may cost slightly more than combs, depending on size and materials, but no one should spend over $30 on a device with the purpose of removing dandruff.

This low investment makes it all the easier to have a dandruff comb at the ready — for the “if and when”— especially considering that these combs are not the actual remedies for dandruff. Leave that to the dandruff shampoos, dermatologist-prescribed options, and natural home solutions, which over time will cost much more. 

The Best Dandruff Combs for Controlling Flakes

BEST OVERALL

Suavecito Synthetic Beard Brush

Given the lack of advertised dandruff brushes out there, we’ve taken some creative liberties in finding a “dandruff comb” that fits Dr. Sutton’s recommendations but isn’t just a toothbrush.. Suavecito’s synthetic beard brush has a bit more rigidity than most boar-bristle brushes which helps it to lift dead skin and whisk it away through the whiskers and head hairs. It will be better suited to shorter hair styles (since it might knot up long head hairs) and should be cleaned regularly when being used for dandruff mitigation. Keep a gentle hand when treating active dandruff, but feel free to go a bit more aggressive with the brush when simply using it as a skin exfoliator or actual beard brush;  in addition to fighting active flakes, it’s a terrific dandruff prevention tool, too.


Kent F3TG Fine Tooth Comb against white background

BEST FOR WET HAIR

Kent F3TG Fine-Tooth Comb

Key Features: Nylon plastic frame, fine teeth 

How It’s Unique: Nylon plastic has a bit of “give” to it, making it adept at navigating the scalp. The fine teeth on this one should lift and separate flakes while still letting hairs pass through. 

There’s More: Make sure hair is detangled prior to use, to prevent breakage, since wet hair is more prone to this type of damage.


Trism stainless steel comb against white background

BEST FOR FINE HAIR

Trism Stainless Steel Dandruff Comb

Key Features: Stainless steel teeth, plastic grip, extremely fine teeth

How It’s Unique: Here’s one that very obviously moonlights as a lice comb, but is marketed towards dandruff. Its ultra-fine teeth and tight spacing will filter the finest of hairs and even spot-check pesky flakes that reside throughout the strands and at the roots.

There’s More: It’s great at catching fleas on your pet, too. (Be sure to cleanse it thoroughly if switching between these tasks.)


fine tooth brown comb against light green background

BEST FOR BEARDS

Beardbrand Sandstrom Pocket Beard Comb

Key Features: Cellulose acetate, wide- and fine-tooth ends

How It’s Unique: While it’s primarily a beard comb, this one has a fine-tooth end that is excellent at trapping stray facial flakes. It’s one tool that you can use regardless of beard dandruff levels, but it has that secret power for whenever you do need to remove scales.

There’s More: Cellulose acetate will also prevent static and frizzing in the strands.


Japonesque brow and lash brush against white background

BEST FOR SPOT-CHECKING FLAKES

Japonesque Brow and Lash Shaper

Key Features: Ultra-fine brush and comb ends, stainless steel teeth

How It’s Unique: It’s easy to repurpose a standard-fare eyebrow brush into a dandruff-managing tool. This double-headed device has teeth for picking out singular flakes from the oddest of places (without messing up the hairstyle), and its brush end can target the scalp and beard with the same precision. It can also glide through larger clusters of strands all at once, which makes it efficient. 

There’s More: Use it to trim long eyebrows too. Simply comb everything directly upwards with the stainless steel teeth, then use eyebrow scissors to snip the too-long hairs along the upper eyebrow perimeter.


Jupiter scalp brush against white background

BEST FOR DANDRUFF PREVENTION

Jupiter Scalp Scrubber Brush

Key Features: Uses resilient elastic polymer TPEE which is also gentle on the scalp

How It’s Unique: It’s not a hair comb or a brush, but more of a scalp scrubber that actually removes dead cells at the surface of the scalp—in turn preventing those flakes from showing up in the finished hairstyle. Use it in the shower every day, or every few days. It looks a lot like a shampoo brush, and certainly can be used for that purpose, but the density of the silicone bristles makes it great for dandruff control as well. 

There’s More: Scalp stimulation also promotes improved circulation and in turn increases oxygen and nutrient delivery to the hair follicles. In other words, it can fortify hair growth and retention.



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Are Home Remedies for Dandruff BS? We Asked a Dermatologist https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/home-remedies-for-dandruff-1202958543/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/home-remedies-for-dandruff-1202958543/#respond Thu, 15 Jun 2023 21:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202958543 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

When it comes to skin and health, there will always be a debate about the merits of natural remedies and good old fashioned chemical fixes. The synthetic solutions provided by dandruff shampoos (such as Nizoral and Head & Shoulders) are highly effective thanks to chemicals like ketoconazole, pyrithione zinc, selenium, and sulfide. But they also come with harsh side effects and can dry out the scalp. Natural remedies like Majestic Pure’s Tea Tree Oil Shampoo and Pura D’or’s Aloe Vera Gel are gentler but tend to be less efffective. Is it worth giving them a shot? 

For most people, the best dandruff treatment is a combination of clinical-strength ingredients, natural remedies that can mitigate and prevent future symptoms once flare ups have resolved, and lifestyle changes. The case for natural remedies on their own is mixed, but using them in combination with other measures can help. 

Home dandruff remedies only work are only effective if they’re actually addressing the root cause of dandruff — inflammation, dryness, irritation.  They also have to be used properly. Two of the top natural solutions for dandruff, tea tree oil and aloe vera, can lead to contact dermatitis when applied excessively. “While aloe vera and tea tree oil have their place in the management of seborrheic dermatitis, people should be aware that they are also known causes of allergic contact dermatitis—a form of eczema that develops following a period of sensitization to topical products,” said Vancouver-based dermatologist Dr. Allison Sutton of West Dermatology

In other words, over-treating one problem can create an entirely new issue in the form of an allergic, inflammatory reaction. “This [contact dermatitis] typically manifests in the form of burning, stinging, flaking, redness, and sometimes even blistering,” Sutton said. “It’s important to note that while all topical products have the potential to cause an allergic contact dermatitis, some pose a higher risk than others and so moderate use and monitoring of tolerability is important in all cases.”

Some of the chemical treatments can also cause contact dermatitis when overused, said Sutton, which can lead to further drying, itching, and inflammation. 

Products from brands like Selsun Blue and Nizoral are engineered to be the most effective, but they should be used in moderation, scaled back once symptoms subside, and replaced with the gentler natural remedies. The same can be said of steroid options. “While use of topical corticosteroids is safe and often necessary in the management of seborrheic dermatitis, prolonged consistent use without a break can increase risk of side effects,” said Sutton. “As such, alternative adjuncts can be beneficial for maintenance treatment.” 

What the Experts Say

Sutton said that the best options for at-home dandruff solutions should focus on scale removal while also reducing inflammation, itching, and the fungal/yeast buildup caused by dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. 

Both Sutton and Dr. Jaimie DeRosa of DeRosa Center Plastic Surgery and Med Spa in Boston and Palm Beach, FL.  ranked tea tree oil as the most effective at-home, natural remedy, followed by aloe vera. DeRosa is a fan of baking soda while Sutton is not, and apple cider vinegar was a favorite solution of DeRosa’s but not of Suton. DeRosa also gave special mention to lemongrass oil and Sutton called out salicylic acid since it can be naturally derived and is a go-to ingredient in dandruff shampoos

As for chemical ingredients, DeRosa said that in general, all of them are effective at addressing dandruff flare-ups in the short-term, but cautioned against overusing them or using them for too long. 

“Selenium sulfide is a potent anti-fungal that has been shown to be toxic over the long term and can cause liver and kidney damage” DeRosa said. “Another common ingredient is triclosan, which is an antibacterial, but is believed to interfere with hormones and may even accumulate in human fat cells.” 

Ketoconazole can change hair texture, make the scalp and hair excessively dry or more oily, and can also irritate the scalp. Pyrithione zinc can irritate mucous membranes, so it may burn or sting if it gets into the eyes or nose and throat. Sometimes it can even cause blistering of the skin. Coal tar has been shown to be carcinogenic in large quantities. It also has a strong, pungent smell that can linger. 

What’s the ROI?

Since most dandruff shampoos and natural dandruff remedies are pretty cheap, the question of an investment here becomes time and, more importantly, time spent still dealing with dandruff.

The best advice, when using natural remedies for dandruff, is to choose products that are already on the market and which deploy the active ingredient of choice, as opposed to mixing up a concoction at home. Maybe the primary exception is using aloe vera gel directly from a plant itself, but aside from that, it’s a bad idea to make a DIY tea tree oil solution, given that the ingredient can cause contact dermatitis when applied in large concentrations. 

So, rely on a 5% tea tree oil shampoo instead, since studies prove that it can reduce severe cases of dandruff by 40% over the course of 4 weeks. That means moderate or mild cases will see resolve far sooner, too. One terrific option, outlined below, is just over $16 for as many ounces of shampoo.

Sutton said to keep in mind that dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis aren’t conditions with a cure. The standard treatment path includes mitigating future occurrences once the initial problem is under control. “More often than not, adequate treatment requires a multi-modal approach of lifestyle modifications, over-the-counter and natural remedies, and prescription medications,” said Sutton. 

DeRosa recommended some changes in grooming routine, too. “Be sure to properly dry the scalp after washing, instead of leaving the hair to air dry,” she said. While it’s not a remedy on its own, it can help prevent that proliferation and assist treatment efforts. 

As for any non-shampoo remedies, Sutton suggested also pairing them with one’s dandruff shampoo of choice (and remember, this can be one with tea tree oil or salicylic acid as well—it doesn’t have to be the tough chemical stuff). “Ongoing maintenance management with a dandruff shampoo twice per week will decrease the frequency of a flare-up and keep the condition maintained,” Sutton said. 

Consistent use of a lower-cost at-home remedy alongside a dandruff shampoo can help prevent flare-ups and decrease the need for an expensive prescription treatment in the future. For this reason, the time and monetary investments in at-home dandruff treatments are likely to have a high return. 


Best Overall: Tea Tree Oil

Of all the common home dandruff remedies, both doctors cited tea tree oil as their top pick for its antiseptic, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. But that doesn’t mean someone should just dump pure tea tree oil directly onto the scalp, since that could cause some serious irritation. Instead, when treating dandruff, aim for a shampoo with a generous tea tree oil concentration. Both doctors pointed to the same study proving 5% tea tree oil concentrations can reduce dandruff by 40% in four weeks. 

Lower concentrations of tea tree oil (in shampoo and used in other types of products) can act as a mitigation means to prevent future outbreaks.

Our Product Recommendation:

Majestic Pure Tea Tree Oil pack of shampoo and conditioner against white background

BEST OVERALL

Majestic Pure 5% Tea Tree Oil Shampoo and Conditioner Set

Few over-the-counter shampoos offer this high concentration of tea tree oil in their recipe, to match the 5% formula used in successful studies. Instead of trying to mix a formula at home with a bottle of tea tree oil, trust Majestic Pure’s readymade remedy.



Best for Flakes: Salicylic Acid

Key Means of Delivery: 2% or 3% solutions in shampoos or scalp serums

How It Works: Salicylic acid can temper oil production and lift away dead flakes, since it is an oil-soluble exfoliator. This is also why the ingredient is terrific at treating and preventing acne as well as oily complexion.

There’s More: Salicylic acid may not be considered natural by some, although it is found naturally in willow bark and meadow seed. However, compared to the chemical options like ketoconazole and selenium sulfide, it is a much more “agreeable” skin and scalp ingredient.

Our Product Recommendation:

bottle of Selsun Blue Salicylic acid shampoo against white background

BEST FOR FLAKES

Selsun Blue Naturals 3% Salicylic Acid Shampoo

While many salicylic acid formulas are 2%, this one tips the scales — literally — with an extra percentage to help remove scales from the scalp while also mitigating oil buildup. Selsun Blue itself is no natural product, so don’t be mistaken here, but salicylic acid is generally considered by the experts in this piece to be a gentler active ingredient.



Best for Inflammation: Aloe Vera

Key Means of Delivery: Shampoo, lotion, gel

How It Works: It’s not just for sunburns. “Aloe vera decreases inflammation, but also has antifungal and antibacterial properties,” said DeRosa. This makes it terrific at countering multiple dandruff / seborrheic dermatitis causes. Plus, it feels oh so good.

There’s More: Remember, that overuse of aloe vera can cause sensitivity-induced allergic contact dermatitis. So don’t rely on pure or high concentrations between treatments, Sutton warned. Low concentrations are ok, seeing as aloe is a common ingredient in many skin and hair products.

Our Product Recommendation: 

Pura d'Or Aloe VEra Gel against white background with aloe vera leaves behind and in front of bottle

BEST FOR INFLAMMATION

Pura d'Or Aloe Vera Gel

There are many products that use aloe vera as an ingredient, but it becomes quite diluted when it’s shoved way down on the ingredients roster. Pura d’Or’s gel is the real deal, full-on aloe. Use it to target everything from dandruff to sunburn; it’s a nice way to get multiple uses out of a single purchase. 



The Fastest Fix: Lemongrass Oil

Key Means of Delivery: 5-15% concentrations in hair tonic, shampoo, or lotion

How It Works: Lemongrass oil is antiseptic, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant-rich, and soothing. DeRosa scored it 8/10 for effectiveness, pointing to a study that confirms the ingredient is an effective natural way to treat dandruff, with a 10% concentration being the most effective (a 75% improvement in one week). 

There’s More: Similar to tea tree oil and aloe vera, long-term continued use of lemongrass essential oil can cause allergic contact dermatitis, and pure essential oil blends should be avoided.

Our Product Recommendation: 

two bottles of LATHER Bamboo Lemongrass shampoo against white background

FASTEST FIX

LATHER Bamboo Lemongrass Shampoo (2-pack)

It is very difficult to find over-the-counter mixtures with the recommended 10% level of lemongrass oil concentration. So, it’s either a DIY potions-making attempt with a shampoo or scalp lotion—just be sure to spot-check it before using it across the entire scalp—or it’s a lower-grade shampoo option like LATHER. Let it sit on the scalp for a couple of minutes before rinsing, and use it as a terrific mitigator of future flare-ups, too.



Other Contenders—With Divided Options

The following home remedies come with mixed testimony from our experts and, unlike the treatments above, little to no clinical evidence to support any claim that they help treat dandruff. They are not recommendations but rather options that are already available in most homes and come with risks. 

Apple Cider Vinegar

Key Means of Delivery: Shampoo, scrub, or DIY concoctions (5 parts water, 1 part vinegar)

How It Works: Apple cider vinegar is antimicrobial and can reduce the yeast that causes dandruff (Malassezia spp), said DeRosa, adding that apple cider vinegar also smells kind of rank. 

There’s More: Sutton is an apple cider vinegar skeptic: “There is no strong evidence to support the use of apple cider vinegar in the management of seborrheic dermatitis, plus it can worsen scalp irritation and cause an irritant contact dermatitis,” she said.

Our Product Recommendation:

jar of dpHUE Apple Cider Vinegar Scalp Scrub against white background

dpHue Apple Cider Vinegar Scalp Scrub

The jury’s out on the effectiveness of apple cider vinegar, but not on that of this scalp scrub. Use it as an additional line of defense in between other dandruff remedies (like chemical or natural shampoos), to buff away dead cells while also neutralizing fungus.



Coconut Oil

Key Means of Delivery: Shampoo, conditioner, scalp masks, scrubs, lotions

How It Works: Many people rely on coconut oil’s nourishing and barrier-reinforcing properties to help prevent and treat scalp dryness and flaking. It has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, too. “Coconut oil is specifically great for helping safely remove some of the thicker, more adherent scale that can develop in seborrheic dermatitis, especially in children,” said Sutton.

There’s More: “Be sure to not overuse coconut oil, as it could irritate scalps where the dandruff is due to skin inflammatory conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis,” said DeRosa. Regular concentrations found in standard shampoos and conditioners tend to be carefully balanced so as to avoid such problems. 
Our Product Recommendation:

Tube of Briogeo Scalp Revival with charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo

Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-Exfoliating Shampoo & Scalp Scrub

Briogeo’s multitasking scrub helps soak up excess scalp sebum while also buffing away dead skin cells and nourishing the healthy ones with coconut oil. While fighting active flare-ups, use it every few days as a supporting agent to dandruff shampoo. And then use it once a week thereafter as a means of prevention.



Baking Soda

Key Means of Delivery: DIY paste (sometimes combined with coconut oil and honey, sometimes mixed directly with shampoo)

How It Works: “The active ingredient of baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, and sodium bicarbonate may help to reduce fungal and yeast infections on the skin, including the scalp,” said DeRosa. “It’s an inexpensive home remedy but can be messy to apply.  It also may make your hair feel dry for the first few weeks of use too.”

There’s More: Baking soda is quite alkaline and can throw off the scalp’s pH levels. “There is no strong evidence to support the use of baking soda in the management of seborrheic dermatitis,” said Sutton. “It can worsen scalp irritation and cause irritant contact dermatitis.” Give the true DIY-ness of using baking soda, proceed with caution…

Our Product Recommendation:

box of Arm & Hammer Baking Soda against white background

Arm & Hammer Baking Soda

For any DIY dandruff-defense efforts, it’s worth using the most trusted name in baking soda… plus it costs under a dollar, so why choose anything else?



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The 10 Best Dandruff Shampoos, According to Dermatologists https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/best-dandruff-shampoo-1202707369/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hair/best-dandruff-shampoo-1202707369/#respond Wed, 07 Jun 2023 21:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202707369 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

Dandruff symptoms are predictably uniform from person to person — flaking, itching, scalp irritation — but the root causes of it vary. Anyone who suffers from dandruff should first identify the underlying issue causing it, as this will inform which dandruff shampoo is best and which active ingredient to deploy to prevent future breakouts. 

While most people associate dandruff with poor hygiene or a dry scalp, it’s more complicated than that. Someone may have an excessively oily or irritation-prone scalp, which can trigger flaking no matter how often the hair is washed. Over shampooing can also dry out the scalp — as can air-conditioned rooms, arid environments, dry seasons, pool water, hot showers, or even genetics. Contact dermatitis, an allergic reaction to one’s shampoo or styling products, is another common cause of dandruff. 

Even with this intel, it can be difficult to pin down the exact cause of dandruff. Dr. Robin Evans, a board-certified dermatologist at Southern Connecticut Dermatology in Stamford, Conn. said there is not always a specific cause of dandruff, and that an appointment with a dermatologist can be helpful in finding a solution tailored to each unique case, even if it’s an over-the-counter (OTC) shampoo. 

Most OTC dandruff shampoos are effective at nixing a wide range of dandruff cases, but they’re one-size-fits-all. Read on for insight on dandruff shampoos and their best ingredients, from Evans and two other board-certified dermatologists: Dr. Michele Green in New York City andDr. Calvin Williams of Essential Dermatology Group in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. 


What the Experts Say About Dandruff Shampoo

The Best Active Ingredients for Treating Dandruff

While there are many active ingredients found in anti-dandruff shampoos these days, Williams honed in the six best ones for fighting against flaking and preventing future flare-ups.

  1. Ketoconazole: “This is an antifungal medication used to treat dandruff caused by a yeast, called Malassezia,” said Williams. “It’s particularly useful for those with a more severe form of dandruff, also known as seborrheic dermatitis.” Many of the dermatologists SPY spoke to on this topic marked this as their preferred ingredient for treating most cases.
  2. Pyrithione zinc: Also antifungal, and also targeting Malassezia yeast, pyrithione zinc is slightly less potent than ketoconazole, said Williams. “Use it for mild to moderate cases of dandruff. It has an anti-inflammatory effect, too.” This active ingredient is perfect for the guy who occasionally finds flakes but hasn’t had anyone else comment on it yet. 
  3. Salicylic acid: This ingredient is common in skincare products targeting oily skin and acne, since it can seep into the pores and free them of any clogging, while also tempering oil production and exfoliating skin cells at the surface. So, for obvious reasons it’s great for dandruff caused by excessive oil with flaky build-up, said Williams. 
  4. Coal tar: This ingredient sounds unappealing, but it’s actually quite soothing. “Coal tar can slow down the growth of skin cells and reduce inflammation. It’s been shown to be of benefit to patients with psoriasis or severe dandruff,” said Williams. 
  5. Selenium sulfide: Another potent antifungal agent, selenium sulfide is a common pick for severe dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, said Williams. Studies suggest that ketoconazole is slightly better tolerated en masse.
  6. Tea tree oil: Tea tree oil is an essential oil with antifungal and antibacterial properties, but should only be used in products that have been cleared by the FDA for use—as opposed to making one’s own oil blend at home. “In dandruff shampoo, tea tree oil is a suitable option for mild dandruff and those who prefer natural ingredients,” said Williams. 

On Using the Shampoo Correctly

Dandruff shampoos carry a reputation of drying out the scalp and hair. This makes it extra important, to use it correctly, regardless of the one you choose. 

“Be sure to use only a quarter-sized amount of the shampoo and apply it directly to the scalp, not the ends [of the hairs],” Dr. Green said. If it’s difficult to avoid the ends of hairs (like, on short and medium styles), she recommended applying a leave-in conditioner to the strands before lathering up. 

Always follow the directions on the shampoo bottle, as these active ingredients need to absorb into the scalp in order to have a lasting effect. Aim for 30 seconds at a minimum, and always follow with a nourishing conditioner (left in hair for at least two minutes) to add nutrients and moisture back into the scalp and strands alike. Also, make sure to rinse thoroughly after each use to avoid excessive scalp build-up.


Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo against white background

BEST OVERALL

Nizoral AD Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

This ketoconazole-powered shampoo is Dr. Williams’ top choice for a clinical-grade option and casts the broadest net of solution for anyone who can’t source the exact cause of their dandruff. (It’s also SPY’s pick as the best shampoo for beard dandruff and scalp itch.) 

Why It’s the Best: “Ketoconazole 1% is proven to be very effective against the fungi that are involved in dandruff,” Williams said in recommending this one. This formula is also gentle on gray hair, dyed hair, and chemically processed hair. There’s even a 2% version available via prescription for anyone with extremely severe dandruff.

However, Williams added that there’s never a one-size solution to dandruff, so the picks below might better suit individual cases, depending on severity, dandruff cause, patient preferences, and hair texture/styling needs.


Head & Shoulders 2-in1 anti-dandruff shampoo against white background

BEST FOR MILD DANDRUFF

Head & Shoulders Anti-Dandruff 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Key Ingredient: Pyrithione zinc 1%

How It Works: As Williams noted, pyrithione zinc is terrific at targeting mild to moderate cases of dandruff, particularly in its standard 1% delivery. This is his go-to brand for mild cases for that reason.

There’s More: This dual pack contains 64 ounces of anti-dandruff shampoo. It’s designed to be used once a week, so it’s fairly low-maintenance and great for prevention.


Harry's Anti-Dandruff 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

BEST FOR PROGRESSED DANDRUFF

Harry's Extra-Strength Anti-Dandruff 2-in-1 Shampoo & Conditioner

Key Ingredient: Pyrithione zinc 2%

How It Works: By doubling the usual dose of pyrithione zinc, this recipe goes from tackling mild cases to more moderate and severe ones. 

There’s More: Be sure to select “Extra-Strength Anti-Dandruff” on the Harry’s shampoo page; it defaults to the regular 1% pyrithione zinc option (which is also terrific for mild cases), but anyone wanting a higher dosage should upgrade to the 2% “extra-strength” one.


Selsun Blue Anti-dandruff shampoo against white background

BEST FOR SEVERE DANDRUFF

Selsun Blue Medicated Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

Key Ingredients: Selenium sulfide 1%, menthol

How It Works: Williams recommended selenium sulfide for cases of severe dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis caused by fungal proliferation. This one also cools on contact — a nice soothing touch — thanks to the menthol in its recipe. 

There’s More: Selsun Blue has a roster of shampoos with selenium sulfide and pyrithione zinc that target different hair types and scalp conditions.


Neutrogena T/Sal Therapeutic Shampoo against white background

BEST FOR OILY SCALPS

Neutrogena T/Sal Therapeutic Shampoo

Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid 3%

How It Works: This high-grade salicylic acid shampoo is another favorite of Williams’. It helps balance oil production in the pores, while also unclogging those pores of sebum buildup and trapped skin cells. It exfoliates dead surface cells too, to prevent existing flakeage. 

There’s More: Use this one on itchy, flaky beards, especially if the skin underneath is prone to oil buildup and acne.


Neutrogena Therapeutic Shampoo against white background

BEST FOR INFLAMMATION

Neutrogena T/Gel Therapeutic Shampoo

Key Ingredients: Coal tar 1%

How It Works: Coal tar is William’s recommended ingredient for reducing inflammation, making this particularly useful for anyone whose seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis (or similar inflammatory condition) is causing dandruff or itching up top.

There’s More: It smells funky, yes, but think of it as medicine (which rarely tastes nice either).


Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Special Shampoo against white background

BEST NATURAL REMEDY

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Special Shampoo

Key Ingredients: Tea tree oil, aloe vera, jojoba extract

How It Works: While the shampoo itself is not a natural recipe, the tea tree oil in this scalp-purifying shampoo is a natural alternative to the active ingredients in other recipes. It’s not as immediate of a fix as those hair-drying shampoos, but it will be more nourishing to hair and skin.

There’s More: Paul Mitchell created an entire Tea Tree hair care line for all types of hair and scalp needs. Stocking up on a couple of options to cover the bases isn’t a terrible idea.


Pura D'Or Scalp Therapy dandruff shampoo against white background

BEST FOR PREVENTION

Pura D'Or Scalp Therapy Shampoo

Key Ingredients: Tea tree oil, aloe vera, peppermint oil, argan oil, lavender oil

How It Works: This all-around nourishing and balancing shampoo is a terrific regular-use shampoo in its own right. It’s the gentlest pick on this roster, so it won’t necessarily fight active dandruff but is helpful for ongoing prevention without drying out the hair and scalp.

There’s More: It tingles and soothes upon application, thanks to aloe vera as well as peppermint and lavender oils.


Head & Shoulders Royal Oils dandruff shampoo against white background

BEST FOR CURLY HAIR

Head & Shoulders Royal Oils Scalp Care Shampoo

Key Ingredients: Pyrithione zinc 1%, coconut oil, apple cider vinegar

How It Works: Curls need constant conditioning, and dandruff shampoos are famous for depleting strands of moisture. This formula is the friendliest to curls and coils due to its inclusion of nourishing coconut oil and scalp-clarifying apple cider vinegar. 

There’s More: Target the scalp as best as possible; if the rest of the curls need washing, use a more curl-friendly (non-dandruff) shampoo, and always always follow with a curl conditioner or leave-in cream.


DermaHarmony Zinc Bar soap against white background

BEST FOR BALD HEADS

DermaHarmony Dandruff Shampoo Bar

Key Ingredients: Pyrithione zinc 2%

How It Works: This bar soap deploys a moderate grade 2% pyrithione zinc to tackle flakes and inflammation in order to keep bald heads looking polished.

There’s More: It’s all in the brand’s name: DermaHarmony’s pH-balanced bar honors the skin harmony of the scalp, to avoid redness, inflammation, or drying out.


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The Best Products for Treating Beard Dandruff, According to Dermatologists https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/beard-dandruff-1202957378/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/beard-dandruff-1202957378/#respond Tue, 06 Jun 2023 18:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202957378 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

Skin under the beard is far too easy to ignore. It’s hidden under a layer of hair that makes it harder to detect dryness and irritation until it’s uncomfortable. Parched, inflamed skin results in flakage otherwise known as beard dandruff. Yes, the same dandruff that sloughs off scalps onto shoulders can fall off the face if proper skin care isn’t practiced. This makes nourishing the skin a key part of a beard care regimen. 

Beard dandruff can originate from a number of causes, said Darius Davie, men’s hair stylist and founder of Groom Guy barbershop and salon in Washington D.C. and Palm Beach Gardens, FL. Davie said a lot of the guys in his shops come in with beard dandruff caused by dermatitis, a chronic skin condition, but also stress, environmental factors (like dry, arid weather), or sheer neglect of beard and skin care. 

Too much sweat and oil can cause beard dandruff, as well as the complete depletion of the skin’s natural oils from the wrong products. Davie said switching products and changing habits can not only quickly remedy the problem at the first signs of flaking, but also help mitigate the source of the beard dandruff going forward. 

“Many men ignore early signs of beard dandruff, which includes itchy stubble, redness, or flaky skin at the follicle,” he said. “There are grooming products on the market chemically designed to prevent and combat beard dandruff,” he said. Preventative products include beard oils, brushes, and exfoliating skincare ingredients. Once a case of beard dandruff has broken out, the fastest-acting remedies look a lot like the best over-the-counter (OTC) solutions for head dandruff, including dandruff shampoos


What the Experts Say

Beard dandruff and scalp dandruff have a lot in common, said Texas-based dermatologist Dr. Calvin Willams of Essential Dermatology Group. This is largely because both the face and scalp are susceptible to seborrheic dermatitis. 

“[This condition] can also affect the beard area, eyebrows, and the nasolabial folds,” said Williams. “Because of this, similar medications that work well for the scalp can also be effective for other parts of the body.” For anyone experiencing beard dandruff, Williams recommended trying scalp remedies as a first line of treatment with an important caveat. “Because many of these products can be very drying, they should be followed up with a good moisturizer after usage to prevent excessive dryness or irritation,” he said. 

For Beard Dandruff Prevention

In addition to using a beard brush to physically exfoliate the face, NYC-based dermatologist Barry Goldman of Goldman Dermatology suggested a roster of carrier oils (in one’s beard oil of choice) to help nourish the skin underneath the scruff. Chief among these are jojoba oil, argan oil, sweet almond oil, and avocado oil. These primary carrier oils tend to be rich in antioxidants and many are also anti-inflammatory; it’s no surprise they are commonly used in skin and hair care. 

Also, salicylic acid cleansers or serums work well to balance oil levels, keep pores clear, and exfoliate dead skin cells. (Salicylic acid is also a common ingredient in some scalp dandruff shampoos for this very reason. It’s also Davie’s go-to ingredient for prevention.) If the beard is short enough, consider using a hyaluronic acid serum or moisturizer on the skin, too, since it can attract and hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water and in turn prevent over dryness. 

Avoid essential oils and beard dyes that use the chemical PPD (para-phenylenediamine) to help minimize contact dermatitis, and keep showers mild and short to prevent depletion of skin oils.

For Beard Dandruff Treatment

Williams said to start with the same active ingredients found in scalp dandruff shampoos, and to feel free using shampoos designed for hair right on one’s beard. The ingredients to look out for are  ketoconazole, pyrithione zinc, salicylic acid, coal tar, selenium sulfide, and tea tree oil (which is itself an essential oil, and should only be used in FDA-approved products, never as a standalone oil application). Read more about these options in our SPY guide to dandruff shampoos here. “If the dandruff doesn’t improve or worsens after several weeks of using OTC shampoos, it’s likely time to see a dermatologist who can prescribe more effective, prescription-strength options,” Williams said.

Davie said to incorporate a beard brush into one’s nightly regimen during treatment, too, in order to brush away flakes and help with future prevention. “A beard brush will be one of the best instruments to tackle those tough areas,” he said.” It captures all the spots our fingertips miss regularly.” 

Best Products for Treating and Preventing Beard Dandruff

Nizoral Anti-Dandruff shampoo with 1% Ketoconazole against white background

BEST OVERALL PRODUCT FOR BEARD DANDRUFF

Nizoral AD Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ketoconazole 1%

The single best treatment for active beard dandruff is going to be the same shampoos that treat scalp dandruff. That said, there’s no single universal solution for every case of beard dandruff, so it’s important to understand the root cause of one’s own flaking. When SPY asked him to pick the single best product for treating a large portion of cases (for scalp, and thus for the beard too), Williams picked Nizoral’s shampoo, which contains the active ingredient ketoconazole. 

“Ketoconazole is proven to be very effective against the fungi that are involved in dandruff, and this 1% formulation is readily available over the counter,” he said. Most people should be able to tolerate it,, but be sure to keep skin moisturized after the fact with a facial cream or beard oil. We also recommend anyone discontinue use after the dandruff is gone and switch to a preventative strategy because of the intensity of the active ingredients.


King C. Gillette Beard Oil against white background

BEST BEARD OIL

King C. Gillette Beard Oil

Key Ingredients: Argan oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia seed oil

How It Works: These ultra-nourishing ingredients can seep past the beard hairs, unlike many lotions and balms, in order to moisturize and fortify the skin. 

There’s More: The oil can also soften and condition beard hairs, reducing things like split ends and beard itch. The longer the beard, the more drops you’ll use per application. Use a beard comb to distribute in fuller beards.


Smooth Viking Boar Bristle beard brush and comb set against white background

BEST BEARD BRUSH

Smooth Viking Boar Bristle Beard Brush & Comb Set

Materials: 100% natural boar bristles, pearwood

How It Works: These durable, sturdy brushes can reach skin through even the fullest of beards to exfoliate skin and detangle neck nests.

There’s More: While boar-bristle brushes certainly aren’t vegan, almost all are cruelty-free in that the boars have their hairs trimmed, not unlike sheep being shorn.


3 bottles of Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Face Cleanser with Salicylic Acid

BEST CLEANSER

Neutrogena Oil-Free Face Wash with Salicylic Acid

Key Ingredient: Salicylic acid

How It Works: Salicylic acid can seep into the pores to clear out excess oil and trapped skin cells, and to mitigate both oil and dry skin at the surface of the skin, too.

There’s More: This is one of the hero ingredients in scalp dandruff remedies, too.


jar of Derma E Tea Tree & Vitamin E relief cream against white background

BEST MOISTURIZER

Derma-E Tea Tree and Vitamin E Relief Cream

Key Ingredients: Tea tree oil, vitamin E, aloe vera

How It Works: The anti-inflammatory and antiseptic powers of the key ingredients in this cream act quickly on contact to reduce dandruff caused by excessive dryness or irritation (and to calm skin simultaneously).

There’s More: This one is both a face and body moisturizer, so use it on dry or inflamed skin anywhere.


Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum in front of Hydrating Swatch of Product

BEST SERUM

Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum

Key Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid 

How It Works: Draws moisture into the skin and holds up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, keeping skin hydrated and firm.

There’s More: This will work wonders for the entire face, not just the skin under the beard.



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The Best Products for an Itchy Beard, According to Dermatologists https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hygiene/how-to-stop-beard-itch-products-139021/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/hygiene/how-to-stop-beard-itch-products-139021/#respond Tue, 30 May 2023 16:00:00 +0000 http://spy.com/?p=139021 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

Occasional beard itchiness comes with having facial hair. A cursory chin rub can easily look like a sophisticated, contemplative pause in conversation. Incessant beard itchiness, on the other hand, is worth addressing.

There are plenty of products that can help, but beard itchiness doesn’t necessarily call for introducing a specific product. It’s often the result of subpar hygiene habits. NYC-based dermatologist Barry Goldman of Goldman Dermatology suggests a novel concept:  washing and moisturizing the beard will prevent itchiness. Groundbreaking. 

“Washing removes the dirt, oil, and buildup, so one should wash [their beard] daily even if they don’t wash their hair daily,” Goldman said. Seasonality can also contribute to itch. Dry winter air can leave skin parched and scaly, but a lack of proper cleansing during sweaty summer humidity can also lead to irritation. 

Beard itch is not unlike another pesky phenomenon above the shoulders: itchy scalp. “The scalp and beard share similar features functionally and anatomically, such as the presence of oil-secreting sebaceous glands,” said board-certified dermatologist Kunal Malik of Spring Street Dermatology in NYC. “The scalp and beard are each prone to similar pathologies, like eczema, seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff), psoriasis, allergic contact dermatitis and more.” Malik said the most common cases are related to dandruff and allergic reactions from ingredients in beard dyes and shampoos. 

Start by looking at the ingredient labels in skincare products, in case there are offending items causing itchiness.

What the Experts Say

The Best Ingredients for Beard Itch

If beard itch is caused by dryness, both doctors recommend carrier oils like jojoba oil, “which replicates the body’s natural sebum,” says Goldman. Argan oil, avocado oil, pomegranate oil and sweet almond oil can also deliver similar anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to the skin and absorb into the whiskers to make them softer as well. 

Goldman and Malik also encourage looking for active ingredients commonly found in shampoos for scalp itch including antifungals like ketoconazole, pyrithione zinc, and selenium sulfide, as well as salicylic acid for exfoliation and oil toning. And yes, Goldman said it’s OK to use a scalp shampoo directly on the beard. “They should be left on for a few minutes before rinsing,” he said. 

A few other SPY-recommended ingredients include hyaluronic acid, one of the most hydrating ingredients in skincare, as well as shea and cocoa butters. Hyaluronic acid can attract and hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, and is common in facial creams and serums. Adding one to a skincare routine can help calm the skin under the beard and prevent itching from dryness. The butters can also soften and condition hairs and reduce inflammation.

The Worst Ingredients for Beard Itch

Essential oils are frequent culprits for contact dermatitis and other allergic reactions on the skin, and should be avoided entirely on an itchy beard. Malik cautions against using them for treating and preventing beard itch — especially in unregulated formulas or as a standalone application. If used, they should always be mixed in with a balanced formula that’s been tested for efficacy. 

Tea tree oil is known for its anti-inflammatory, oil-balancing, and anti-microbial properties. It’s also widely misused and can be especially drying and irritating on contact. Others to skip if a beard is itchy are ylang-ylang oil, lemongrass oil, sandalwood oil, and clove oil

The most important ingredient to look out for, by far, is fragrance. Try to avoid added or synthetic fragrances in all products applied to the face/beard. Some might have a natural scent due to ingredients in the blend (often a smidge of essential oils), but any sign of “Fragrance” or “Parfum” on the ingredients list is a red flag in this category.

Lastly, for anyone dying a beard: Try to avoid dyes that use the chemical agent para-phenylenediamine (PPD), as the partially-oxidized form, the one most commonly used, can cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals. This will be difficult, as it is the primary ingredient in dying products. Ideally, find one with a generous balance of HPPS (Hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate) to offset the inclusion of PPD, since HPPS is a gentler ingredient and much less likely to cause contact dermatitis.

Kamedis beard wash and packaging box against white background

BEST OVERALL

Kamedis Beard Wash with Pyrithione Zinc

The best products for beard itch prevention don’t always match the best ones for beard itch treatment, since the latter tends to demand active ingredients. This beard wash is excellent for both, as it deploys the antifungal active ingredient pyrithione zinc, which is commonly used in scalp itch shampoos as a remedy for seborrheic dermatitis/dandruff. 

It also exfoliates flakes and balances sebum levels with salicylic acid, another common active ingredient used in scalp treatments. It should be in any scruffy guy’s shower, and used at least once a week when preventing itch (double that during the hot, humid height of summer), and used daily when actively treating beard itch.


Rocky Mountain unscented beard oil against white background

BEST BEARD OIL

Rocky Mountain Barber Company Unscented Beard Oil

Key Ingredients: Argan oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, 

How It Works: Rocky Mountain Barber lets these carrier oils do the talking, ensuring both skin and scruff stay soft, and without any potentially irritating artificial fragrance. 

There’s More: The inclusion of rosemary extract also promotes hair growth and further strengthens the scruff as it sprouts.


Badger Balm unscented against white background

BEST BEARD BALM

Badger Unscented Balm

Key Ingredients: Olive oil, beeswax

How It Works: No frills with this one: It uses olive oil to nourish skin and beeswax to condition and lock in moisture. Best of all: no added fragrance, so itch-prone skin can rest easy. 

There’s More: Badger’s balm is an all-over utility balm for skin and hair everywhere. This is true with many beard-oriented products; typically, anything used on the facial skin can be used on the beard, while standard shampoos serve as great beard washes, too. Lastly, any non-comedogenic hair product (balms included) can be used to tame and condition whiskers at any length.


Grooming Lounge Whisker Sauce conditioner lotion for beard and skin

BEST BEARD CONDITIONER

Grooming Lounge Whisker Sauce Beard Conditioner

Key Ingredients: Avocado oil, shea butter, aloe vera, panthenol, Vitamin E

How It Works: This leave-on lotion softens strands and nourishes skin all day, working as both a remedy and treatment for dry, itchy beards.

There’s More: A light touch of lime oil adds a natural and deliciously refreshing scent, and since it’s natural it’s formulated to have no adverse impact on the skin. 


BlueBeards Unscented beard wash against white background

BEST BEARD WASH

Bluebeards Unscented Beard Wash

Key Ingredients: Aloe vera, coconut extract, Vitamin E, panthenol

How It Works: As much a conditioning agent as a beard shampoo, this unscented wash calms inflammation and softens both skin and hair as it flushes away dirt and excess oil.

There’s More: Use a product like this every day to prevent beard itch, while subbing in one with an active antifungal or antimicrobial ingredient once a week. 


ZilberHaar Pocket beard and mustache brush against white background

BEST BEARD SCRUB

ZilberHaar Pocket Mustache and Beard Brush

Materials: Pearwood and boar bristles

How It Works: There are tons of scrubs out there, but a boar-bristle beard brush will help exfoliate the skin beneath the hairs, and should be paired with other products on this roster to fully neutralize itching. (It sure does provide a nice temporary itch-relieving scratch, too.)

There’s More: Beard brushes are great for combing out the beard and distributing oils to the ends of each strand in longer beards. This brush is fairly small, so use it in the early stages of beard growth, then swap in a bigger version if the beard outgrows it.


La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Serum against white background

BEST FACIAL SERUM

La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Key Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, panthenol, cica grass

How It Works: This facial serum is a spectacular initial layer on the skin beneath one’s facial hair, and can then be layered with conditioning oils or balms. It attracts moisture from the air and helps keep skin soft, hydrated, and soothed.

There’s More: The inclusion of cica grass (centella asiatic) and panthenol (Vitamin B5) make this serum a terrific skin soother, too.


True Sons Hair and Beard Dye kit against white background with directions and hair comb

BEST BEARD DYE

True Sons Hair and Beard Dye Foam

Key Ingredient: Hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate

How It Works: True Sons aims for a more natural finish with its hair and beard dye, so that the result isn’t like a dark block of color and rather something softer and more blended with one’s blondes or grays.

There’s More: This is one of the few beard dyes that doesn’t rely on PPD (para-phenylenediamine), which is a very common culprit behind contact dermatitis. Beard dyes in general will often cause itching, drying, and irritation, so always proceed with caution. True Sons is likely the most gentle for the largest group of guys.



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How Much to Spend on a Skincare Routine https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/mens-skincare-products-1202954026/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/mens-skincare-products-1202954026/#respond Mon, 29 May 2023 19:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202954026 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

If internet skincare experts are to be believed, spending an hour each night applying 17 different serums is the norm. Though skincare influencers would lead people to believe otherwise, any  sane dermatologist can attest that using dozens of products is unnecessary. The hype around skincare has created a lot of confusion and stress, particularly for men looking for reasonable regimens that’ll cover the bases without adding a needlessly onerous nightly routine. 

Even if it’s clear that succumbing to trends like gold leafed products isn’t necessary, skincare can be hard to navigate. And some basic questions are natural, like what do I need to do as a baseline? Do I have to do this every day? And just because my girlfriend lives this way, do I have to?

The answer, at least to the last one, is a definite no. 

There’s no denying that a thorough skincare regimen can prevent things like accelerated wrinkling, dark spots, moisture, and elasticity loss, and acne. But a laundry list of products is not necessary for most guys, and in fact, curating a more efficient skincare routine can save money and lead to better results. 


Identify Your Skin Type

The first step to building an efficient and effective skincare routine is identifying skin type and the primary skin issues one is trying to tackle.

“A person’s essential products depend on skin type, skin care goals, and skin issues that they are trying to address,” Dr. Carmen Castilla of New York Dermatology Group said.  

There are three main categorizations of skin type: dry, oily, and combination skin, each of which correspond  to a common skin issue that can help inform which products are worth using. 

Dry or Sensitive Skin: People with this type of skin should focus on the skin’s barrier functions (in other words, its ability to trap and maintain moisture). 

Acne-Prone Skin: These individuals will focus on preventing acne as well as treating it and healing any leftover spots or irritation left.

Oily Skin: Managing sebum production is a key goal here, as well as exfoliation and preventing clogged pores. 

Visibly Aging Skin: Anyone with an anti-aging regimen should focus on maintaining collagen and elastin production in the skin, through both defensive and proactive measures.

Smug folks who have been blessed with “normal” skin, a.k.a minimal issues, can still benefit from a skincare routine that tackles the basics: cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection. Sun protection not only helps prevent issues later in life but is a worthwhile investment in overall hygiene. 


What Skincare Products Do You Actually Need?

Dr. Julia Carroll of Compass Dermatology said there are four products everyone needs, regardless of skin type or issue: cleanser, moisturizer, SPF, and some sort of exfoliant. 

According to both Carroll and Castilla, one of the best ways to build an efficient, cost-effective skincare regimen is to consolidate steps through multi-purpose products such as exfoliating cleansers and SPF moisturizers. 

Cleanser

Why It’s Necessary: To remove impurities and keep skin refreshed (while also maximizing the efficacy of the subsequently applied products.) 

Our Picks:

CeraVe SA Renewing Cleanser against white background

BEST OVERALL

CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser

CeraVe is one of the best budget-friendly skincare brands out there, and their Salicylic Acid Cleanser packs almost all of the aforementioned key ingredients (salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides). The salicylic acid acts as a chemical exfoliant while the three essential ceramides (1, 3, and 6-II) help restore the skin’s natural barrier. This is a great cleanser for all skin types and makes a great general wash for everyday use. 


Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Face Wash against white background

THE BEST EXFOLIATING CLEANSER

Neutrogena's Oil-Free Acne Wash

Neutrogena’s Oil-Free Acne Wash is also formulated with salicylic acid to help chemically exfoliate the skin, and the brand’s MICROCLEAR technology is made to unclog pores and reduce oil without over-drying or irritating the skin. This is a great cleanser for those who suffer from excess oil or acne-prone skin. 


Dove Men+Care Advanced Care face moisturizer against white background

THE BEST FACE-AND-BODY CLEANSER

Dove Men+Care Advanced Care Face & Body Cleanser

Dove Men+Care delivers an excellent Advanced Care Face & Body Cleanser that’s powerful enough to be used on both areas while also being gentle enough for sensitive skin. It’s made with natural aloe extract hydrating balm for calming and soothing dry, irritated skin. This cleanser works well for men who wash their faces in the shower, want to minimize the number of products in their bathroom, and have dry skin. 


What You Should Pay:

You don’t need to spend a lot of money on a cleanser. Most fall into the $10-$40 range, which is the most anyone needs to pay to get their face clean. There are plenty of other steps in a skincare routine where someone can splurge, and a few where it’s worth it, but cleansing is not one of them.


Face and Body Moisturizer

CeraVe's PM Moisturizing Facial Lotion against white background

BEST OVERALL MOISTURIZER

CeraVe's PM Moisturizer

Castilla and Carroll recommend CeraVe’s PM moisturizer as a great budget-friendly option for daily nighttime use for most skin types. It’s formulated oil-free and non-comedogenic, making it simultaneously great for oily and acne-prone skin types. It’s also made with three essential ceramides for boosting the skin’s natural barrier, and it’s made with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid for calming the skin and moisturizing overnight. 


CeraVe SPF AM Moisturizer against white background

BEST SPF MOISTURIZER

CeraVe's SPF AM Moisturizer

Both experts also recommended CeraVe’s SPF moisturizer as a great multi-use product for the morning. It’s formulated efficiently so users can skip a step during a busy morning and the affordable price point makes it even more budget-friendly. The SPF 30 micro-fine, zinc oxide sunscreen is formulated to spread on easily and absorb into the skin quickly which makes this a great last step in a morning skincare routine. 


jar of Aveeno's Positively Radiant Gel Moisturizer against white background

BEST AM AND PM MOISTURIZER

Aveeno's Positively Radiant Daily Gel Face Moisturizer

Most moisturizers are made to be used in the evening before bed, or made with SPF for rounding out the morning skincare routine. Aveeno’s Positively Radiant Daily Gel Facial Moisturizer works in both camps and isn’t made with any super harsh or heavy ingredients that would impede it from being used during both times of the day. It’s gentle, hypoallergenic, and formulated for long-lasting hydration. If using two different lotions feels like too much, double up with this simple, flexible formula. 


La Roche-Posay Lipikar AP+M Triple Repair Moisturizing Cream against white background

BEST FOR FACE AND BODY

La Roche-Posay's Lipikar AP+M Triple Repair Moisturizing Body Cream

La Roche-Posay’s Lipikar AP+M Triple Repair Moisturizing Body Cream is both soothing and lightweight, so it can be used on the face and body at the same time. Typically, body lotions are too heavy for use on the face, but this works for both saving time and money. It’s formulated for those with extra dry skin, and made with several soothing ingredients including healing Ceramide-3, shea butter, glycerin, and niacinamide.


What You Should Pay:

Moisturizers can get very expensive, but very few people need to spend a lot to achieve healthy, moisturized skin. $15-$25 is the super affordable end of the spectrum, but some can run the gamut in the $30, $50, or even $75 range. Those with “normal” skin looking to maintain moderate moisture levels can go with something around $20. Those with excessively oily or excessively dry skin may want to spend more for a higher-quality formula with better ingredients. No one needs to spend more than $50, in our opinion.


Sunscreen

Why It’s Necessary: Because even a few minutes of daily sun exposure can accumulate into accelerated “photo aging,” or visible signs of aging. Wear SPF daily to prevent such damage from UV rays (and potential damage from computer/TV/smartphone screen exposure). Any progress made with a stellar, well-rounded skincare routine filled with powerful active ingredients can easily be undermined by sun damage, making daily sunscreen use a must.   

Our Picks:

We’ve already offered a few top-notch SPF moisturizers, the product we recommend for consolidating a morning skincare routine and getting the most bang for your buck. Here are a few additional options, in case none of the ones above fit the bill.

eltaMD UV Clear SPF against white background

BEST OVERALL

EltaMD UV Clear Face Sunscreen

This sunscreen is a favorite amongst our editors, both for its zinc oxide formula and lightweight, silky texture that absorbs almost instantly into the skin. It’s oil-free and excellent for those with sensitive skin. It also has UVA/UVB sun protection with a broad-spectrum rating of 46. 


Cardon Skincare SPF + Moisturizer against white background

BEST SPF MOISTURIZER

Cardon SPF 30 Moisturizer

Cardon is a Korean skincare brand that uses soothing, healing cacti in all of its formulas and packs in the vitamins in its SPF 30 Moisturizer. The formula is lightweight, absorbs quickly and is made with vitamins A, D, E, K as well as electrolytes for protecting the skin’s external barrier. 


What You Should Pay:

SPF is not an area to skimp on, since it’s arguably the most important part of any skincare routine no matter the skin type or skin issue. $20-$30 is a budget-friendly minimum, while $30-$45 is the sweet spot for a worthwhile SPF product that isn’t overpriced.


Exfoliant

Why It’s Necessary: Exfoliants remove dead skin cells and in turn prevent rough patches of skin, discoloration, and trapped pores. This is necessary enough to include in an “essentials” list, but not everyone will fully benefit. “This should be done 1-2 times per week,” Carroll said. “But anyone with rosacea should avoid it.”

Our Picks: 

La Roche-Posay Glycolic Acid Serum against white background

BEST OVERALL EXFOLIANT

La Roche-Posay Glycolic Acid Serum with Kojic Acid and Vitamin B5

If a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid isn’t already mixed into another step in the skincare routine, like the cleanser, this Glycolic Acid Serum from La Roche Posay is a great addition. It’s made to reduce dark spots, help improve discoloration as well as brighten and even skin tone. It’s best applied at night and sealed in with a moisturizer and contains aloe to help mitigate any potential irritation.


Neutrogena's Hydro Boost Exfoliating Cleanser Against white background

BEST EXFOLIATING CLEANSER

Neutrogena's Hydro Boost Exfoliating Cleanser

Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost exfoliating cleanser is powered by gentle doses of glycolic acid, lactic acid, and papaya enzymes to remove impurities from the surface of skin while also minimizing irritation and boosting hydration. It has a gel-cream consistency and goes on smooth making it great for a daily skincare routine. 


What You Should Pay:

Exfoliants cost a bit more, especially chemical exfoliants that dissolve dead skin cells gently as opposed to physical exfoliants like scrubs that can be cheaper but are harsher on skin. The reasonable amount to pay for a dedicated exfoliant is $35-$50, and there are plenty of hybrid cleansers that should cost around $30.


So, How Much Do You Actually Need to Spend on a Skincare Routine?

The cost of each person’s skincare regimen will differ based on needs, targeted treatments, and goals. With that in mind, it is entirely possible to maintain a low-cost, high-performance facial skincare regimen with as few as three products. This can happen through two permutations:

  1. A morning moisturizer with SPF, an evening moisturizer, and an exfoliating cleanser
  2. A morning and evening moisturizer, a daytime facial SPF, and an exfoliating cleanser

From there, individuals can add any additional targeted ingredients and products for things like acne, psoriasis, eczema, anti-aging, and more.

Everyone’s expenses will differ when building a regimen. With daily use, these products should last 1-3 months; in some cases, an entry-level cost of $50 or so could be spread across three months, meaning an effective and baseline facial skincare regimen can, and probably should, cost as little as $16/17 per month.

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How to Smell American https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/how-to-smell-american-1202953076/ https://spy.com/articles/grooming/skincare/how-to-smell-american-1202953076/#respond Sun, 21 May 2023 21:00:00 +0000 https://spy.com/?p=1202953076 Our editors independently select the products we recommend. We may earn a commission on items bought through our links.

Perfume is French even if it isn’t. Cologne feels Parisien even though it takes its name from a German city where an Italian invented the 2% to 4% oil to alcohol and water mix. Blame the Sun King for the Versailles vibe. Louis XIV loved a floral spritz even more than he loved a failed foreign war. 300 years after his death, his scent lingers, which is why a certain kind of American man views anything coming off an olfactory production line with skepticism. 

It feels Old World. It feels decadent – and not in a good way. 

It’s probably not a coincidence that Old Spice, the most popular scented product in line in America, has very few European ingredients. It’s a trade wind rushing up from the Caribbean, carrying nutmeg, star anise, aldehydes, and lemon. It smells American, but only in the sense that it’s familiar. It does not smell of America itself, the land or the crops. No terroir. 

As it happens, few common scents are sourced within the borders of the United States. Cologne does not feel as American as deodorant, for example, because it isn’t. But that’s starting to change as a generation of scent crafters experiments with new ingredients and new ways of positioning themselves in a $8.1 billion market driven by impulse and emotion. What does it mean to smell American? Perfumers are starting to not only ask the question, but provide the sort of answers worth purchasing.

Oakland-based Juniper Ridge, which uses exclusively plants native to the American West, provides the simplest answer in the form of locally sourced ingredients. But many perfumers are dubious about an approach that limits the brand’s ability to be as precise when painting an olfactory picture. For most perfumers, it’s not just about sourcing ingredients. It’s about evocation. 

“Would you ask an American painter to only paint using American Pigments?” asks Nick Arauz, CEO of Caswell-Massey, a US-founded and based luxury fine fragrance brand. “Would you ask an American musician to only play instruments made in America?”

Of course not. That sounds off.

 “It’s an ’emotional’ request, a desire to smell something that evokes or represents something that feels familiar,” says NYC-based perfumer Carlos Huber, founder of Arquiste Parfumeur. Arauz reframes the question. “When you recognize perfumery as fine art and the perfumer as an artist, it becomes clear that you don’t need to use 100% American raw materials to make a great American Perfume.”

It’s about evocation. The forested west. The vast northern plains. The coastal wetlands. Americanness can be derived from chemistry and juxtaposition. The best rose comes from France, Turkey, or Bulgaria; primo vetiver is Haitian and Indian; ylang-ylang has to be sourced from Asia and Australia. But together they can become deeply American. 

That idea has always been at the heart of the Caswell-Massey business, which was founded in 1752. Some ingredients are imported, but the ethos is profoundly not. It’s an immigrant-founded American fragrance and personal goods company with a hero scent, “Number Six,” that has been worn by everyone from “Buffalo Bill” Cody to John Barrymore to John Adams to George Washington. The first president gave it to visiting dignitaries. 

“Our first influencer,” Arauz jokes without really joking.

At the time, Number Six was meant to be the American answer to the beloved German scent Farina Eau de Cologne (1709). Number Six had a unique aromatic profile and incorporated ingredients native to New England, plus more wild animalic notes of musk, ambergris, and civet. “The scent was created to capture the spirit of adventure and exploration and hope, which was strong at the founding of the country and remains strong today.” 

The scent leans heavily toward what Robert Frost described as “lovely, dark and deep.”

“America has so much diversity in pine, cedar, sagebrush, and fir,” Arauz explains. “These notes are synonymous with many great American fragrances, capturing the outdoors but also having some really nice balance with green and floral notes in the best extractions.”

The forest pricks the sense. The West is different. It’s a gust. It can be harder to capture.

Ask Huber what how to bottle the deserts, the mountains, and the montane and ideas spew out. A Mexican-born naturalized American citizen, Huber is sentimental about his adopted country. He’s also a historian of a kind. In September, Huber and Arquiste will launch a candle, Santa Ynez General, that is supposed to evoke a very specific place at a very specific time. The place: Mattei’s Tavern in Los Olivos, CA. The time: October, 1886.

“The 5 p.m. stagecoach from Santa Barbara arrives with a clatter of hoofbeats, raising a rich, dusky scent from the baking earth,” Huber narrates. “Passengers arrive weary yet beguiled by the heady bouquet of the Santa Ynez Mountains: sweet artemisia and bitter chapparal sage on the sunny ridges, aromatic fennel and herbal bay laurel in the canyon bottoms. Now resting on the Tavern’s veranda, the passengers watch as the lowering sun burnishes the golden hills spooling out before them, their scent of curing hay and buckwheat carried aloft by the faintest Pacific zephyr.” 

All of that in a single whiff.

It’s all in keeping with Huber’s very specific approach to bringing scents back home. He underscores personal nostalgia.

“I try not to stir politics or tribalism or nationalism,” he says. “I focus on the individual experience: What’s your American experience? Because the beauty of the United States is that it’s a union, hence, the sum of many parts: cultures, experiences, scents, and flavors.”

The difficulty is often in isolating those parts and distilling them. New technologies help.

Nature-identical molecules, pioneered by NYC-based company International Flavors & Fragrances, allow perfumers to produce ingredients that could never be produced using conventional methods. Consider an orchid with a beautiful scent that only grows an inch or two per year or an endangered species of plant growing at Yellowstone that is threatened by climate change. Consider the snow leopard. Consider the lobster.

Arauz has embraced the new tech to create Caswell-Massey’s scents, including “Yellowstone.” He thinks of high-quality synthetics as an opportunity for storytelling. And he’s not alone.

Demeter Fragrance Library in Great Neck, NY which sells over 300 one-note wonders including “Tootsie Roll,” “Play-Doh,” “Pizza,” “Cannabis Flower,” and “Baby Powder, uses match molecules to hit otherwise unreachable notes.

 “We capture the air around the object in a vacuum, then use gas chromatography to create a chemical fingerprint and recreate that fingerprint with materials acceptable for use on the skin,” Crames explains. Aside from personal wear and gifts, Demeter’s scents are often commonly used to establish ambiance at parties and corporate events, as well as in nursing homes for dementia patients (for nostalgic recollection), or to programs that support the hearing impaired (to embolden other senses).

The personal is rendered in precise terms. Nostalgia is about the details. Tootsie rolls are nothing if not American. Tootsie Rolls do not smell French. Neither does “Yellowstone” or an Old West saloon. 

America is hard to distill. Many have tried. What perfumers are finding as they strip Old World accents from their smells, is that the whole can only be understood as a sum of parts and the parts must be bottled separately. The beauty of this is that it creates a multiplicity of choices. Self determination. Nothing more American than that.


10 Best Fragrances “Made in the USA”

3 Stellar Scents That Are 100% Sourced in the USA
bottle of Juniper Ridge Coastal Pine cologne against white background

Juniper Ridge Coastal Pine Cologne

This is Pacific Highway 1, but the northern part that deserves more love in American lore. Pine trees tower over the ocean, and a salty sea breeze careens through their needles.


bottle of St.Johns Bay Rum Cologne against white background

St. Johns Bay Rum Cologne

St Johns prides itself in its US-sourced raw materials, as well as its “Fishpot-wave” bottles, which are woven in the Virgin Islands. Bay Rum is its most iconic scent, a cinnamon, sandalwood, and spicy clove mélange that pairs as smoothly with skin as real Bay Rum pairs with St Thomas, St Johns, and the likes.


bottle of Bravo Sierra Eau de Cologne against white background

Bravo Sierra Eau de Cologne

Bravo Sierra’s entire brand stands tall with a “Born in the USA” backbone, and they donate 5% of profits to programs that support military families and veterans. The citrusy squeeze and American cedarwood in this US-sourced, Georgia-born scent are featured across many of Bravo Sierra’s terrific products (like body wash, deodorant, bar soap and more). This cologne adds leather to that mix for a nuanced finish that merits being one’s all-day every-day signature scent.



7 Great Scents That Literally Smell American (Made in the USA)

bottle of Casewell Massey Number Six Eau de Parfum

Caswell-Massey Number Six Eau de Parfum

It’s already been said: Number Six was the go-to scent of America’s first two Commanders in Chief. It’s practically the unofficial scent of American men at this point. Its modern expression is citrus-woody-musky-spicy, with notes like bergamot, golden amber, clove, white musk, and rosemary.


bottle of DS Durga Mississippi Medicine Eau de Parfum

DS & Durga Mississippi Medicine Eau de Parfum

Here is proof positive that a scent doesn’t need to be inspiring: Mississippi Medicine recalls “a fast-growing death cult that emerged in the southern part of the US in the 1200s”. Hey, it’s a great conversation starter. At least it smells fantastic though, thanks to birch tar, white spruce, incense, and cypress root.


bottle of Demeter tootsie roll fragrance against white background

Demeter Tootsie Roll

Demeter’s scents aren’t all chuckle-inducing, but its most head-turning options are those that the shopper can smell even when shopping online. Tootsie Roll is one such pick: Who knew that Tootsie Roll essence would one day be bottled, and that the simple act of unrolling this American candy could stir up so many memories?


bottle of Polo Ralph Lauren Eau de Toilette against white background

Ralph Lauren Polo Eau de Toilette

One of the most iconic American-born scents, going 45 years strong. People around the world recognize the original Polo, and they know the face of the guy who launched it. This is Americana in a scent, projecting timelessness and nostalgia together at once.


Bourbon solid cologne balm by Duke Cannon

Duke Cannon Bourbon Solid Cologne

Once the wearer applies a sliver of this bourbon-tippled solid cologne to the pulse points, he is transported to the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky, which reeks positively of oak barrels. It doubles as a scented beard-taming balm, too.


bottle of Tru Western Yellowstone Cologne

Tru Western Yellowstone Cologne

Paramount Network tapped Tru Western to imagine its official companion scent for the streaming phenom Yellowstone. The brand says it best: “The Yellowstone cologne embraces the ethos of a man. Ideal for the noble outdoorsy type…who cleans up well after ‘doing cowboy shit all day’.”


bottle of Le Labo Santal Eau de Parfum against white background

La Labo Santal 33 Eau de Parfum

NYC-founded Le Labo and its most iconic scent Santal 33 are a pair of olfactive American success stories. The fragrance is a nod to the vastness of the American plains, with musks, powdery florals, and prominent woods. And the once-humble brand was purchased by Estee Lauder for $60 million in 2014 when the perfumery was just 8 years old.


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