Long a staple in classrooms and hiking trails, the humble backpack is perhaps the most versatile kind of baggage there is. The kid- and outdoor-focused packs are still going strong, but there are also newer options designed with a sense of style — a reflection of the growing acceptance of backpacks in workplaces and on the shoulders of stylish men. It’s all fueling a backpack resurgence, with one analysis projecting that the category’s global market size will nearly double between 2022 and 2030.

It’s a bit of a chicken and egg situation, but the growing popularity of backpacks and the growing diversity of the backpacks on the market seem to go hand-in-hand. On a busy city street in the morning, it’s entirely possible to spot a school-bound kid, a bike courier, a tech worker, and a stylish man-about-town all wearing different backpacks that suit their needs. In other words, backpacks are ubiquitous, but that doesn’t mean that all of them are great.

The best backpacks accomplish their intended function with aplomb, whether that’s protecting a laptop or holding a crumpled camping tent. Beyond that, durability, comfort, and style are the other factors to consider. Price-wise, it’s possible to spend $50, $500, or more on a quality backpack, so whether one is “worth it” depends on its materials, construction, features, and warranty — as well as the customer’s needs.

What the Experts Say

Sources within the backpack industry say that shifting trends in the market mean there are plenty of backpacks worth getting excited about, both in terms of what they do and what they look like. For this story, SPY interviewed Nate Axvig, owner of Colorado-based Scandinavian gear retailer Aktivstyle, certified travel agent Christen Thomas, and others who shared their expertise about specific kinds of backpacks.

“The pandemic has accelerated the transition away from the bland briefcases of yesteryear,” says Thomas. “Corporate folks and road warriors alike are looking more for functionality and backpacks, in general, are becoming the norm.”

Thomas, who has backpacked across Europe, adds that “it’s crucial to have a backpack that’s versatile and practical without sacrificing style or comfort.” Function is most important, in other words, but the modern crop of backpacks means that sacrificing style is not necessary.

BEST OVERALL

Sandqvist Bernt Backpack

Axvig says he uses his Bernt as both an everyday bike commuter and regular European backpacker. He’s quick to point out the design touches that make it a winner, starting with the zipper compartment on the back where one can safely stash and access a laptop without having to open the whole bag. Opening the whole bag, however, is simple, thanks to “the roll-top construction, [which] is both secure and easy to use” and the cinching on the sides, which makes it easy to compress an empty pack.

The materials are where this bag really stands out, as well. There are lots of leather bags and lots of Cordura bags, but not many that combine the luxurious natural material and the tough-as-nails synthetic fiber. The end result is a backpack that’s rugged and stylish with what Axvig calls “a sophistication that is as at home on the trail as it is in a corporate setting.”

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BEST FOR BIKING

Manhattan Portgage Empire XXL

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$339.00

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Made For: Cyclists who need to carry a lot. Veteran NYC bike messenger Kevin Bolger helped design this backpack to hold the increasingly larger loads that bike messengers ferry about town. “They didn’t have a big enough bag for what was going on currently in the industry, so I helped them design that extra-big bag,” he explains. “It has a lot of extra straps and stuff like that.” Those who don’t need that much space can opt for the non-XXL version of this bag.

Hot Take: Splitting a load between two shoulders instead of one makes backpacks better for cyclists than messenger bags — the only downside being that it’s hard to access cargo without taking it off.

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BEST FOR COMMUTING

Peak Design Travel Backpack

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$229.95

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Made For: Business-minded backpackers. “Its smart pocket layout and excellent accessories give it a sleek appearance while still being enormously practical,” Thomas says. There’s a layer of ultra-light padded foam around the bag that gives it more structure for a more polished look that also helps protect its contents. It’s one reason Thomas says this backpack is “a favorite among many of my business-traveler clients.” 

ROI: It’s compatible with an array of Peak Design accessories, including packing cubes, special bags for camera equipment, and a hip belt accessory (so it can easily transition from commuter backpack to travel backpack). Buying this bag means buying into an ecosystem that can make buying additional bags for additional purposes unnecessary.

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BEST FOR BACKPACKING

Osprey Farpoint Travelpack

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$220.00

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Why It Stands Out: It’s the best of both worlds. Hans Mast of Golden Rule Travel says that it’s “an exceptional choice for European travel due to its versatility, durability, and user-friendly design.” That’s a reflection of Osprey’s goal with these packs: incorporating serious technical features, like fine torso adjustments and breathable harnesses, into backpacks meant for use by people who won’t be relying upon them for long stretches in remote wilderness.

Coolest Feature: The detachable daypack, which makes it easy to explore on those days when backpackers can leave the main bag in the hotel. Mast calls it a “game-changer” that makes city exploration in particular much easier.

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BEST LEATHER

m0851b BP 25

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$745.00

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Why It Stands Out: The full-grain leather is great, but it’s the aniline that makes this bag stand out. Leather tanner and designer Tanner Leatherstein says that anilines are “very transparent dyes that accomplish color consistency on the surface but don’t cover up imperfections.” This allows for an unnaturally colored backpack to nevertheless show off the natural texture of its leather.

ROI: At $745, this bag is an investment, but it’s undoubtedly cool. And, because it’s minimally finished, it will develop a patina over years of use.

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BEST SECURITY

Pacsafe Venturasafe EXP45

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$259.95

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Made For: Those who need to keep valuables safe during transit. The Pacsafe Venturasafe has a slew of features meant to thwart pickpockets and identity thieves: self-locking zippers, a layer of steel mesh to prevent slashing, and a security clip that makes it easy to lock the bag to a secure object in, say, a hotel room. “While I was exploring the narrow alleys of Barcelona, the peace of mind this backpack provided was invaluable,” Thomas says.

Coolest Feature: There is a special pocket that is equipped with RFID-blocking technology, so any passports or credit cards aren’t at risk of being scanned and repurposed.

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Backpacking through Europe might generally be associated with American twenty-somethings on debaucherous odysseys, but it’s actually a pretty great way for anyone (who doesn’t mind walking) to see the sights. And with flight and hotel prices spiking, along with Europe’s popularity as a travel destination, the relatively low cost of backpacking makes it an even more tempting choice. A great backpack is, unsurprisingly, crucial to having a good time backpacking.

As a constant companion throughout the trip, a backpack that has the right weight, capacity, durability, and features is essential. Frustrations abound when these factors don’t line up, but the good news is that there are plenty of options to satisfy anyone’s preferences and needs. The best travel backpacks for Europe cost a few hundred dollars — a small price to pay for the peace of mind and comfort they provide in unfamiliar territory.

What the Experts Say

Sources with ample experience backpacking through Europe agree that the right backpack is absolutely critical. For this story, SPY talked to travel bloggers Art Dobrucki (of The Places Where We Go) and Shelley Marmor (of Travel Blogging 101), plus a host of other experienced travelers, to help sort through the best travel backpacks for Europe available now.

Dobrucki, a veteran of multiple multi-week trips through Europe, says that ensuring the backpack is the right size for the specific trip is crucial. “[The right backpack should] be the Goldilocks size — not too heavy (to prevent it from being difficult to fit on public transportation) but also not restricting the amount of space one needs to carry [belongings] for multiple weeks in Europe.”

Marmor agrees, explaining that the first time she went to Europe, she had a backpack “the size of a small mountain,” which proved quite cumbersome on Rome’s tight, winding streets. “That was when I discovered the real MVP: a backpack around 40 to 45 liters in size,” she says. “[It needs to be] compact enough to sneak past those tricky airline restrictions, yet spacious enough for all your necessities.” Specific itineraries or packing needs might demand a different size, but around 40 liters is the right size for most people.

Marmor also says that it’s not worth bringing a backpack that isn’t comfortable. “Look for one with supportive hip belts, protective top lids for unexpected rain showers, and a solid suspension system to balance the load,” she advises. “There’s no better feeling than strolling through Paris quickly while others grapple with unwieldy suitcases.”

Regardless, the experts agree that backpacking unlocks a whole new travel experience that’s totally worth it. “Traveling in Europe with just a backpack provides an incredible amount of flexibility,” Dobrucki says. “Not only do we not have to worry about lugging around unnecessary luggage, but we can craft an itinerary that is on-the-go as much as possible.”

BEST OVERALL

Osprey Farpoint Travel Pack

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$220.00

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By far the most common recommendation offered by the travel experts we spoke to was the Osprey Farpoint, which comes in 40-, 55-, 70- and 80-liter versions. Hans Mast of Golden Rule Travel says that it’s “an exceptional choice for European travel due to its versatility, durability, and user-friendly design.” That’s a reflection of Osprey’s goal with these packs — the brand incorporates serious technical features like fine torso adjustments and breathable harnesses into backpacks meant for use by people who won’t be relying upon them for long stretches in remote wilderness.

One of the coolest features is the detachable daypack, which Mast calls a “game-changer” that “facilitates seamless exploration during city visits.” With so many great cities relatively close to each other in Europe, the daypack is a particularly useful item to have on-hand when backpacking across the continent. (Also, when flying, it can count as a personal item to accompany the carry-on-sized Farpoint, which helps travelers avoid the hassle and risk of checking the only piece of luggage they’re carrying.)

Internal compression straps, a sternum strap with safety whistle, and a stowable back panel, harness, and hip belt round out the thoughtful features on this pack, as beloved for its versatility as it is for its robust warranty. The $220 price tag for the 55-liter model is also utterly reasonable.

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BEST AIRFLOW

Aircontact Core 65+10L

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$250.00

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Made For: Summer backpacking. As its name suggests, the Deuter Aircontact Core 65+10 is designed to maximize airflow and minimize sweating — a key feature in Europe where summers are hot and air conditioning is scarce. Food and travel writer Sarah-Jane Begonia says that, during a trip to Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, its “ventilated back panel kept the sticky, sweaty feeling at bay on those hot Turkish summer days.”

Coolest Feature: Airflow is only one aspect of comfort, so this pack also has an ergonomic lumbar pad, moveable shoulder straps, and hip fins that help distribute weight evenly for a more comfortable carry experience.

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BEST BIG BACKPACK

Gregory Soltoro 100 Pro Pack

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$419.95

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Made For: Long-haulers traveling through remote regions. There’s no shortage of natural beauty in Europe that’s best enjoyed over an extended camping stay. The 100-liter version of the Gregory Soltoro is ideal for those types of trips because its expanded capacity doesn’t sacrifice comfort. Travel writer Ethan Williams says that its “ergonomically designed suspension system allowed me to carry heavy loads without feeling the strain” — a feature that’s even more valuable in a bigger bag.

ROI: Williams says he’s also a fan of how flexible his Soltoro is. “From hiking in the Swiss Alps to enjoying a romantic dinner in Rome, the backpack’s sleek design and functionality never felt out of place.”

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BEST DAYPACK

Osprey Sportlite 30

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$135.00

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Made For: Light packers. Experienced backpacker Rebecca Nicholson recently took hers on Scotland’s West Highland Way, a 96-mile trek through varied terrain. “It’s a minimalist,
lightweight pack that was big enough to carry my clothes and supplies while
remaining comfortable on my back, thanks to a suspension system and decent
ventilation,” she says. “This pack wouldn’t be big enough if you need to carry camping supplies, like a tent, but it’s perfect for backpacking around with just the essentials.”

Hot Take: Two backpacks are better than one. Having a smaller daypack makes it easy to carry the essentials for daily excursions while one’s main pack, a heavier and much more important item, stays safe in a hotel or vacation rental.

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BEST SUITCASE REPLACEMENT

Tortuga 40L Travel Backpack

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$350.00

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Why It Stands Out: Travel writer Kevin Groh says this backpack is “intelligently designed to optimize space without surpassing carry on-size limitations.” He says what makes the Tortuga stand out is “its front-loading design, which allows access to packed items without the need to search through from the top” — a valuable time-saver.

Coolest Feature: Unzip the long middle zipper and the bag falls open like a classic suitcase, exposing all of its contents at once and making it ultra-simple to pack and unpack. There’s even a mesh bag for dirty clothes — a standard feature in rolling suitcases that’s nicely repurposed here.

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BEST SECURE BACKPACK

Pacsafe Venturasafe EXP45

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$259.95

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Made For: Safety-first backpackers. The Pacsafe brand is built around, well, safe packs, and the Venturasafe is no exception, with a self-locking zipper, built-in steel mesh to prevent slashing, and a security clip that makes it easy to lock the bag to a secure object. Travel writer Christen Thomas says that, while he was exploring the narrow alleys of Barcelona, the peace of mind this backpack provided was “invaluable.”

Coolest Feature: A special pocket contains RFID-blocking technology, so any passports or credit cards aren’t at risk of being scanned as part of an identity theft scheme.

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BEST FOR STAYING ORGANIZED

Cotopaxi Allpa 28

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$170.00

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Coolest Feature: The inside of this pack is more compartmentalized than competing bags, making it easy to keep myriad items easy to find. Backpacker and rock climber Kevin Le Gall says that each compartment “acts like its own packing cube, so you can separate your clothes from your shoes, climbing gear, or electronics. That organization makes this bag incredibly versatile, and a must-have for lightweight traveling.”

Why It Stands Out: In a sea of bags in drab greys, blacks, and natural tones, the Cotopaxi Allpa’s bright and varied colorways (e.g. the one with sienna shell, blue logo, and purple zippers) mean this pack literally stands out.

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Briefcases were invented in the 19th century, had their heyday in the 20th, and have declined in the 21st as workplaces became more casual. In other words, the briefcase has transitioned from office staple to style moment. Not as many men are carrying them, but those who do are sending a stronger message than ever before.

The best briefcases on the market today all make a strong philosophical statement — one of both function and aspiration — but differ in price, materials, and style. Prices range from hundreds to thousands of dollars, so choosing the right briefcase is largely a question of how well its materials, construction, and design translate into a message about the man who carries it.

What the Experts Say

Sources with deep knowledge of briefcases — as both designers and users — are quick to talk about briefcases as symbols as much as functional objects. For this story, SPY spoke with Tom Carbone, an adjunct professor in the Fashion Accessories Design program at the College for Creative Studies, trial attorney Randolph Rice, plus businesspeople and lawyers who carry briefcases every day to help sort through the best ones available now.

Carbone says he doesn’t see any briefcases among the bags his students bring to class. That’s because, as he puts it, the “very term ‘briefcase’ brings alive this usage — almost a demographic. It’s like a lawyer or a CEO.” And so, today, buying a briefcase means deciding how much, if at all, to subvert this cultural meaning with choices in materials and design that feel more natural.

“The attaché, with its boxlike frame, has that ultra-precision look,” continues Carbone. “The moment you go to the flap-style bag, you come down in terms of casual versus luxury — it’s a different image you’re portraying.” 

From there, there are also important functional questions to consider when buying a briefcase. Will it fit what it needs to fit? Does it have the right mix of features? How much does it cost and is it worth that price? There are no objectively right answers — there are simply right answers for the person buying it.

BEST OVERALL

Von Baer Essential

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$875.00

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This briefcase is all about the material. Carbone says that Von Baer only uses leather that meet’s the brand’s strict standards. “They literally could track it back to the farm where the cow came from,” he says. “Every aspect of it is controlled and environmentally sound.” While you might find this level of quality control at a bespoke bag maker, getting it from a company of this size is unusual. 

Aesthetically, there aren’t a ton of ornamentations to distract from the gorgeous leather — just YKK zippers on two compartments, a sewn-on strap, and hardware that the detachable shoulder strap latches onto. Nick Valentino, a VP at Bellhop, says after a year and a half of using the case, he thinks it’s the “perfect combination of durable and classy,” adding that he appreciates “how flexible the simple, durable design is.”

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BEST ATTACHé

Globe Trotter Oxblood Attaché Case

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$1,745.00

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Made For: The high-powered professional. This is the classic attaché briefcase — one that attorney Dan Xie calls an indispensable tool for his international travels. “Not only does it provide ample space to store and organize my essential documents and laptop, but its timeless design exudes professionalism and sophistication,” he says.

Coolest Feature: Globe-Trotter says it takes five days to make the leather corners on this briefcase, adding durability to the most easily-worn part of the case and creating a timeless look.

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BEST FABRIC

Filson Rugged Twill Original Briefcase

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$495.00

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Hot Take: Not every briefcase has to be a leather-forward affair. This classic from Filson is predominantly made of a waxed cotton twill, with the cowhide reserved for the handles. It all adds up to a briefcase that travel blogger Yulia Saf says is “unrivaled if you prefer blending style with a rugged appeal.”

ROI: Using less premium leather and more cotton means a briefcase that’s less expensive, but because the cotton in question is industrial-strength twill, no durability is sacrificed.

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BEST ROLLING

Alpine Swiss Rolling 17 Laptop Briefcase

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$99.99

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Made For: Carrying more. Tech expert Andhi Ermawan says that this roller is “a lifesaver when you’re carrying a heavier load.” It’s hard to argue with that logic.

Coolest Feature: Lots of locks. There are two combination locks at the main closure and a separate key lock at the front pocket. Those traveling with sensitive or valuable materials will appreciate the additional peace of mind these locks provide.

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BEST POCKETS

Samsonite Classic Leather Toploader

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$168.88 $229.99

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Why It Stands Out: Christen Costa, CEO of Gadget Review, says this briefcase “includes a padded laptop pocket, open pockets for a laptop charger and accessories, a main compartment for documents, and organizer pockets for pens and other small items.” For those who like to keep everything in its place, this is the bag.

Made For: The spacious capacity of the Toploader means it’s great for those who live out of their briefcases, figuratively or literally.

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BEST SLENDER

Montblanc Meisterstück Leather Briefcase

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$1,810.00

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Made For: Those who travel light. The upside of a briefcase that can fit a whole lot is obvious, but so is the downside of a bulky, lumpy bag. The delightfully named Meisterstück is a great choice for those who travel light (or want to push themselves to travel light) at less than two inches thick. Clay Cary, lead analyst at CouponFollow, has another Meisterstück that he calls “unrivaled for a sleek, stylish option” with Italian full-grain cowhide that “adds a layer of sophistication.”

Hot Take: Like most soft briefcases, this one comes with a shoulder strap. However, traveling light means it doesn’t require much more effort to carry it by hand.

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BEST OLD-SCHOOL

Bosca Flapover Briefcase

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$735.00

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Coolest Feature: The hand-stained Italian leather has a glossy finish that wears nicely with time, but it’s the flapover closure and nickel hardware that give this briefcase its classic appeal. It’s the briefcase Rice, the attorney, received from his parents when he began practicing law in 2006 — one that he says “still has the classic leather smell when you open it.”

ROI: This bag works as a gift for a young lawyer because they can use it until they’re an old lawyer.

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Born out of necessity, coffee tables were introduced in coffee houses in the 17th and 18th centuries simply because regular tables were too tall for comfortable glass resting. As necessity and design modernized, so did the materials used to create coffee tables, ushering glass and metals has more common options. 

It’s pretty clear that the lust for the 80’s and 90’s permeated not only current fashion friends, but also interior design ones. So, it’s no surprise that glass coffee tables have made their way back into living rooms. Their styles range from eclectic to modern, making them a great choice for a living room that doesn’t want to come off as stale.

What the Experts Say

While the glass isn’t weak, it’s best to be mindful of the weight and what’s going on and around them. Diana Farberov, a professional Brooklyn-based interior designer, stays mindful about using softer objects or mats and cork boards under harder objects to protect the surface. Glass coffee tables might not be the best option for a household with pets and kids. They can, however, help a tight space feel less cramped. You can find versions that have tiered storage options as well as mixed materials if you don’t want to go all glass. Tiered storage also helps declutter a living room space, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for.

Farberov stays excited about all the styling options glass coffee tables present. She recommends coffee table books for an easy styling solution. They’re a great way to continue to show your personality because there are books on just about every topic. Just because the table is glass doesn’t mean everything on it has to match. Diana also suggests trays and catch-all in a variety of materials as well as personal pieces like photos and travel souvenirs. If your table has tiered under storage, you can add a little more there and keep the top simple.

A few hacks from Farberov:

BEST OVERALL

Mid-Century Art Display Living Room Collection

Buy Now $223.020 - $759.00

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This is peak mid century modern design. The mixture of glass, wood, and metal come together for a coffee table with clean lines and a bit of that funk for which mid century modern is best know. The glass top provides an airy surface for simple styling and the secondary wood shelf offers extra storage space.

This kind of table is perfect for a mid-size living room. The glass top introduces a lighter element while the wood (or marble depending on your preference) grounds the piece in the space. West Elm also has matching circular and end tables if you’re looking to complete the set.

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MOST MID-CENTURY MODERN

Marcio Display Coffee Table

Buy Now $383.20

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Imagine your living room, adorned in warm tones and fitted with clean lines. You’ve been upgrading furniture pieces one at a time and it’s finally culminating in an adult space. This coffee table is your mid century modern cherry on top. 

The slotted wood base is perfect for magazines and coffee table books that not only provide reading materials for guests, but add to the pops of color in the space and represent your eye for design. The glass is a quirky, yet useable surface. At 46” long, this table is perfect for a medium sized living room.

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BEST FOR SMALL SPACES

Tanner Square Bunching Table

Buy Now $254.00

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Not everyone has the space for an extravagant coffee table. Luckily, these bunching tables from Pottery Barn are a workable solution. Whether you have room for one or two, an iron frame mixed with glass shelving still creates the coveted mixed-material look. The tiered base also gives you extra storage space that’s so necessary in studio or small-space living.

The idea of bunching tables should peak your interest. It’s akin to a modular solution without the cookie-cutter aesthetic that comes from sellers like IKEA. In fact, this is one of the more affordable pieces that Pottery Barn offers.

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BEST FOR JUST THE GLASS TOP

Point Reyes Rectangular Coffee Table

Buy Now $1,995.00

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If a glass top is all you’re after, the Point Reyes Rectangular Coffee Table from Williams Sonoma is your solution. The glass top makes for a functional hard top surface spanning what would otherwise be a very textured surface. The beauty of a glass-top-only coffee table is that you still benefit from the reflectivity of the glass. It’ll bounce light, lifting the room and the heaviness of the coffee table base.

The style of this coffee table skews more beachy and less modern. That comes from the handwoven base material, which creates a more natural line as opposed to hard, straight ones.

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SIMPLEST DESIGN

Medium Rectangle Glass Coffee Table with Shelf

Buy Now $188.01

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Sometimes simple design is all you need, especially if you’re a function over form kind of person. Farberov recommends this as an affordable option as well. It has the makings of a trendy coffee table, but also boasts a second shelf for added functionality and storage space.

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TRENDIEST

Donique Coffee Table

Buy Now $195.99

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In today’s era, trendiest also means a nod to 90’s and early 2000’s. The Donique Coffee Table is all glass and so in line with the resurgence of that retro style. This is basically one solid piece of tempered glass that waterfalls at each end to create its legs. In this case, the glass is also recycled, so you can take comfort in knowing it’s a more eco-friendly glass coffee table option.

The primary benefit of an all glass coffee table is that it doesn’t leave you with an eyesore in your living room. It barely even looks like it’s there. That lets you play more with color, texture, and overall style in your living room space.

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DESIGNER RECOMMENDED

Aria Coffee Table

Buy Now $599.00

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Farverov selected this Aria Coffee Table from Urban Outfitters for its simple, yet bold styling. The wavy wood base offers more whimsical and 80’s inspired design while the glass top stays simple to balance out the the table. 

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FUNKIEST GLASS COFFEE TABLE

Ibolili

Buy Now $1,730.00

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Glass-top coffee tables make for great statement pieces in a living room space. The Ibolili is no exception. The teak wood base is a show stopper. The beauty of this table is the way it takes something so natural and makes it a furniture piece. What you lose in storage space and conventional form, you make up for in pure style and boldness.

When it comes to styling, the statement piece does the heavy lifting. The rest of your space can remain simple with maybe just a few color pops to avoid a whole beige and brown color palette.

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MOST AFFORDABLE

Rectangle Modern Coffee Table

Buy Now On Amazon $158.85

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Glass coffee tables are great, but they can get really pricey really quick, especially if you’re considering mixed materials and tiered shelving. If you’re trying to create a grown-up space on a budget, this might be just the right coffee table for you.

It still offers a mix of glass and metal. The metal tubular legs are oriented in a unique shape, which imbue the table with its own personality. You get a little bit of the statement piece vibe mixed with the functionality of rectangle glass top.

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Oysters are a treat at any time, in any season. In recent years, restaurants have embraced oyster culture wholeheartedly, dressing them every which way — with grapefruit, olives, champagne — to entice diners. Lately, though, oysters are popping up far beyond the plate: in style and home décor. A number of designers and brands from Billy Reid to Katie Kime have capitalized on oysters as an ongoing food trend and repurposed the little bivalves to create patterns and crests on new collections. 

If you’re the kind of person who starts a meal with a few briny picks from the Northeast, anyway, wearing one is a sure way to channel the same level of luxury once you leave the restaurant. 

BILLY REID

Tuscumbia Oyster Shirt

 For a darker hue of bivalve prints, this shirt from Billy Reid layers in the same motif without screaming summer-only. With the pattern, the shirt reads as navy and can work for your wardrobe well into the fall.

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TOMBOLO

Aw Shucks Shirt

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$148.00

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Inevitably, Tombolo, the Lords of the Summer Shirt, would have to pick up on the oysters-as-fashion trend. The toweling fabric and zip-front of this polo make it easy to forget you’re in the East Village and not Positano.

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TODD SNYDER

Oyster Camp Collar Shirt

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$99.00 $198.00

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Todd Snyder’s take taps into the half-shell motif while keeping the underlying color rooted in fall hues. This shirt works in summer with the open camp collar but is versatile enough to extend wear long into the autumn.

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CHEFANIE

The World is Your Oyster Napkins

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$48.00

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Are you going to your low-key fancy friend’s new housewarming and need a summery housewarming present? Here you go. (You’re welcome.) These napkins from Chefanie are so chic and immediately elevate “having friends over” to “throwing an intimate cocktail party.”

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KATIE KIME

Oyster Coaster Set

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$48.00

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These scream Hamptons House. Katie Kime’s interior design styles are an easy way to punch up your end-of-summer party and keep things light with these wipe-clean coasters. 

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WHEATON WHALEY HOME

Oyster Print in Rex by Palm Orleans Throw Pillow

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$170.00 - $200.00

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An easy way to keep the beach house vibe in your own den is to bring something light and airy to the room like this oyster-printed pillow sham. The pattern comes in a variety of sizes to fit any insert. 

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Put simply, there’s nothing like a leather bag. Try as they might, faux leathers always feel more faux than leather. And while other fabrics, natural and synthetic, can make for fine bags, none can truly capture the je ne sais quoi of a leather one. The material’s ineffability means that it has been popular for many, many years and, while other options continue to proliferate, there’s no sign of demand slowing down. One analysis projected that the global leather goods market would grow from $419.3 billion in 2021 to $708.7 billion in 2030.

Style-wise, leather can connote toughness, wealth, traditionalism, modernism, small towns, big cities, and pretty much any other aesthetic in the book. Its versatility means that there’s a leather bag for everyone, and while certain brands have carved out their own identities, the material itself is recognizable enough to be recognized sans logos or labels.

Plus, leather is just a fantastic material. It’s long-lasting, attractive, and suitable for many different applications and occasions. And, while leather bags can range from a few hundred to several thousand dollars, knowing the difference between types of leather and its various treatments can ensure that whatever money you choose to pay is well-spent.

What the Experts Say

Sources within the leather industry say the differences between high- and low-quality leather — and, therefore, high- and low-quality leather bags — are vast but not all that difficult to spot. For this story, SPY interviewed tanner and leather designer Volkan Yilmaz, better known as Tanner Leatherstein; Tom Carbone, an adjunct professor in the Fashion Accessories Design program at the College for Creative Studies; and David Mesquita, co-founder of Leather Spa, a leather repair business with six locations including one inside the flagship Saks location on Fifth Avenue in New York City. They offered their advice on how to pick a leather bag worth the money.

Leatherstein touts the following as being good signals to look for when shopping: “If you see full-grain, aniline or semi-aniline finishes, vegetable-tanned, or calfskin, it is usually an indication that you’re looking at a good item,” he says. Why? Full-grain leather is the top layer of the cowhide that has the densest fiber structure and is therefore the most durable; aniline is a soluble dye that, in contrast to pigments, allows the natural texture of the leather to show through; and vegetable tanning uses natural ingredients like bark, fruits, and leaves to preserve the leather. (When compared to chromium tanning, which uses artificial ingredients, vegetable tanning takes longer and costs more.) Finally, Leatherstein says that because calf skins are younger — and younger animals have less scratches and imperfections on the outer surface — that means cleaner, smoother, and generally finer leather comes from younger animals.

A nice piece of leather, of course, can still be ruined by shoddy craftsmanship. Carbone says that turned-edge detailing, in which the edges of the leather are folded and sewn, is generally harder to pull off and more refined than unfinished or painted edges. 

Mesquita adds that he also looks at the hardware on the bag to gauge its quality. “You want to make sure that it’s a metal, not zinc [which is] something very light,” he says. “If you’re buying a bag made from full-grain leather and with quality hardware on it, it’s going to be a little bit heavier.” The truth is in the heft, in other words. Any leather bag worth buying is going to feel like it’s worth the investment, too.

BEST OVERALL

Tom Beckbe Leather Weekender Duffel Bag

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$699.00

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Leatherstein says that when it comes to leather, people tend to fall into one of two camps. There are those who want their leather goods to be uniform and unchanging, and then there are those who “enjoy leather with natural characteristics and don’t mind the varying nature of the grain — the color changes and reactions of minimally finished leathers that age into dark or shinier shades, called a patina.” This bag’s full-grain leather, vegetable-tanned to accentuate the natural high and low notes of the material, is ideal for the latter group, who will appreciate how it ages over time. (Along with its high-quality leather comes high-quality brass hardware, which is heavy enough for a bag of this caliber.)

At $700, this bag is an investment, but it’s more affordable than many other options where the markup comes from the brand or the design and not the materials that determine its quality and durability.

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BEST BRIEFCASE

Von Baer Essential Modern Briefcase

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$875.00

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Why It Stands Out: As a brand, Von Baer is a stickler for high-quality leather up and down the supply chain. “They literally could track it back to the farm where the cow came from,” Carbone says of this boardroom staple. “They know every aspect of it and every aspect is controlled and environmentally sound.”

Made For: A professional who wants the best of both worlds. The minimal design of this bag makes it feel sleek and clean while the leather will look and feel more and more textured over time, accumulating evidence of long days at the office.

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BEST ROLLING

Ghurka Kilburn RS No. 252

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$2,995.00

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Why It Stands Out: Mesquita is reticent to name specific brands, but he did say that Ghurka is known for choosing “the best pieces [of leather] to ensure there’s no lines, or what you would call imperfections, in the tannery.” The end result is leather that retains its natural color and finish but looks as smooth as any pigmented bag.

Coolest Feature: Rolling backpacks might not have been cool in middle school, but a leather duffel bag (with wheels and handle concealed until you need them) make this bag more comfortable to take on a trip than a standard duffel.

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BEST MESSENGER

WP Standard The Meridian Messenger Bag

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$348.00

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ROI: The full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather and solid brass hardware feel like they belong on a bag with a much higher price tag. As an introduction to the world of really nice leather things, this handsome messenger bag is tough to beat at the price.

Why It Stands Out: “Vegetable tanning is a slightly more nuanced way of tanning leather,” says Leatherstein. “At the end of the day, it’s a little more natural and gives more characteristics to the leather that age really well.” Translation: This vegetable-tanned bag will look even better with time.

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BEST TOTE

Ralph Lauren Wellington Calfskin Tote

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$2,495.00

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Why It Stands Out: Leatherstein says that calfskins are “naturally more beautiful and clean, and that’s why it’s usually a good sign that you’re getting a better kind of leather.” This calfskin Ralph Lauren tote proves him right.

Coolest Feature: The shoulder strap turns this humble tote into something of a messenger bag, so it’s really two bags in one. That means it’s a good deal, right?

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BEST DOPP KIT

Pegai Lee Dopp Kit

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$44.50 $89.00

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Why It Stands Out: It can class up any hotel bathroom. This dopp kit, from Leatherstein’s own brand, has antique brass hardware and a suede lining — nice touches on a nice bag that’s a definite upgrade from other similar options.

Good to Know: “You don’t necessarily need leather to have protective pigment finishes for it to have the water protection you’d want in a dopp kit,” Leatherstein says. “You can have very minimal, almost non-finished leathers that are waterproof.” In other words, there’s no need to worry about your new kit getting waterlogged.

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It was an inversion of the Hollywood trope; the cowboys got saved at the eleventh hour. A location scout turned off U.S. Route 287, the cattle truck-clogged interstate winding the 1,791 miles north from Amarillo, Texas, toward the Buffalo Fork River, gushing out of the Tetons south of Yellowstone. It was the late 1980s and America was facing a beef shortage. Financially-strapped ranchers, many of whom had taken out loans to limp through the recession earlier that decade, were selling off their herds to pay down debt. Betty Feuz, owner of Diamond Cross Ranch, was no exception. 

The scout was looking for a place to shoot Marlboro ads and Feuz, who was in her 70s at the time, was more than amenable to the idea. Her grandson Luke Long, who now runs DCR as a resort and event venue, said the photoshoots saved the ranch. Marlboro was first. Then came Wrangler, Anthropologie, and Filson. After that, Jackson Hole became a beacon of wealth in the state, with the highest income per capita in the country. DCR no longer has a herd, but Kanye West recorded his album Ye there. The ranch has also hosted Kardashians, as well as leadership from companies like Disney, Microsoft, and Toyota.

With a clientele like that, it was inevitable that souvenirs from DCR would become desirable status symbols. It was not inevitable that the Long family would create a fully-fledged streetwear brand or that Channing Tatum would be grammed and re-grammed wearing a DCR hoodie. But like the arc of a lasso in the air, time moves in a circle. No one on the ranch forgot about the Marlboro scout.

Around about the same time the scout arrived, Wayne McLaren, the rodeo rider who became the first Marlboro man, announced publicly that he had lung cancer. In 1992, McLaren showed up to the Philip Morris annual meeting as a protester. Executives said they weren’t sure he’d ever really worked for the company. Profits were up, but the colors – technically Boston University red and University of California gold – were beginning to fade. By the mid 2000s, the Marlboro logo, a white peak rising against a red sky, had been stripped off video games and Indy 500 jackets. By the turn of the millennium, as the widespread harm caused by cigarettes became clear, major tobacco companies reached a $206 billion settlement with 46 states that banned most advertising for tobacco products, including on merchandise. 

Now, an altered version of that old familiar logo — three white mountains, a reference to the Tetons – is rising on DCR apparel, which also upcycles the old slab serif font. The clothing looks fantastic. The Marlboro branding worked because it was so profoundly evocative. But it’s clear where the inspiration for what might be called the first “trailwear” brand came from.

Not that Luke Long is hiding it. He’s not. He doesn’t love the language of reclamation; he describes the T-shirts and hats as an homage. He’s even hired some of the same photographers that used to shoot Marlboro ads that were, in fact, themselves an homage to his family’s way of life. Culture circles back on itself. A rattlesnake makes a loud meal of its own tail. 

“I try to infuse our shirts with bits and pieces that tie back to Jackson Hole and our family’s 100-plus-year ranching history,” says Kirby Long, 25, who manages the bulk of the design work. “The images on our T-shirts are often drawn from old photos of Luke’s grandfather, Walter, riding a bucking horse in the Jackson Hole rodeo in the 1930s. I feel like the more knowledge you have of Jackson Hole, the more you’ll go, ‘Aha, I knew I recognized that.’” 

A shirt featuring the actual photo is their best-seller, Luke says. 

It’s Kirby’s goal to replace the imaginative iconography of Marlboro — Clint Eastwood reaching for a dart — with real memories of a real place: dances behind barn doors. A group of sisters trailing cattle for 35 miles. Ranch hands cycling in and out for work. For reasons related to fiction, her timing couldn’t be better.

According to Nielsen rankings released this spring, Yellowstone is the most-watched scripted show on TV. The show follows the Dutton family, who own a Montana ranch bordering the Broken Rock Indian Reservation, trying to save their land from developers.  Like Jackson Hole, a small blue dot, the show has red-state aesthetics, but leans left. Creator Taylor Sheridan has been publicly critical of Trump (who he refers to as “that motherfucker”), while riding the hyper-American, anti-cosmopolitan ethos of his show to a payday big enough he now owns one of the biggest ranches in Texas. 

The Longs get compared to the Duttons on Yellowstone. They don’t mind.

“When Yellowstone became a huge hit and there was a wild interest in everything cowboy,” Luke says. “We thought, we could do like a Fear of God, hand-drawn, oversized graphic tee with a lot of color. We wanted to do what these streetwear brands in Los Angeles were doing, and make a T-shirt that was so good that everyone wanted to know where it’s from.”  

DCR has replicated that look over and over, from their own tees to their collaborations with PacSun and Revolve. It’s a far cry from the state of their business five or six years ago, Luke says, claiming that they were selling between $10,000 to $20,000 in merch per summer to guests on the ranch. Now, he says that they sell millions of dollars worth all over the world annually. 

“There was no ‘Kate Upton wearing a Canada Goose coat on the cover of Sports Illustrated’ moment where suddenly our brand took off,” says Kirby. “The growth was always sort of steady word of mouth — one customer at a time. Friends tell friends.” 

And they haven’t accepted any outside capital, either, Luke says. 

“We could fast track growth a lot with investment dollars, but to us, it’s important to maintain full control,” he explains, saying that the VF Corporation’s purchase of Supreme in 2020 “sacrificed some of what made them special in order to pursue faster growth and bigger profits.” 

The DCR streetwear brand’s growing popularity can be credited somewhat to the tried-and-true aesthetic that arrived on the ranch decades ago and knocked on the front door. But it can also be credited in part to the singularity of that specific geography around Yellowstone, the all-American aesthetic that doesn’t quite map to a polarized ideology. 

The cowboy is loyal to the job. The cowboy, Marlboro Man or not, is for everyone.

Before the likes of Marcel Duchamp or Frida Khalo were icons, they were just people trying to make art. In the spirit of celebrating emerging artists and would-be patrons, SPY regularly bar hops with future luminaries for The Canvas Underground, a look at the next next-big-thing.

This time, SPY met with Darryl Westly, a New York City–based painter and artist who has shown in galleries and exhibitions all over the city. Westly has a background in nightlife, which has deeply informed his work—the people and places he experiences often informing the subjects rendered in his paintings. During the conversation at the Grand Central Oyster Bar, he also doodled away on a napkin.

SPY: The pandemic seems to be somewhat squarely in the rearview now, with art galleries and restaurants like this one open again. How did you, as an artist, manage your creativity during those years? Creatively stifling or giving you the time to work more?

Darryl Westly: Early on, I was at a very rapid rate. I was able to work, I was able to focus, and I also had a community of artists that I was interacting with online, like using Zoom and things like that. I was able to create this community. I’d say it was really kind of raw. The focus on what it was mainly, going and talking to other African American artists in New York, some of them were classmates of mine, and others were just peers. I could say something about how I spent more time in the studio and less time in public, but I realized in the pandemic how important it is to have a balance between different things. The work is informed by life and by engaging with people and things. Having the mindset of having to go, go, go, gotta work on this thing, it’s not giving each thing its due time. So now, I keep a kind of equilibrium. I think I’m kind of returning to that equilibrium of going out and spending time in the studio. 

SPY: A lot of artists wait tables early in their careers to have the hours to work on their art. You went into nightlife. How did those hours and that field influence the things you were doing in the studio?

DW: There’s the lack of a hierarchy that’s nice. There’s something for me intrinsically in nightlife, where I see the divisions between people start to fall apart. Whether that’s race or class or whatever. There’s something about the dark, and having these curated experiences for your senses, where there are libations, and that’s where you find commonality. I found that really interesting. I had all these conversations with people I otherwise wouldn’t have been able to.

There’s something about nightlife, particularly nightlife in New York, that allows for people to reach across barriers. That was attractive, because even within an art environment, you might expect to be open, there are still a number of delineations and different ideas going on that don’t exist in nightlife.

SPY: Being a working artist, what are some things you experienced in the process of your come-up that you didn’t necessarily expert to happen that people just starting out might be better aware of?

DW: There are things like exhibition planning, mapping out finances, or taking on work managing a schedule of output for your work that’s reasonable. I was recently talking with a friend of mine about preparing for an exhibition, and the amount of time that it takes to make that world. Then, there’s a stint of time between executing that, and receiving the payment for the work, which can vary depending on the client. That can be a big issue with, say, an artist creating a large body of work for a large space versus a smaller piece. Which one is going to require more time? Potentially an artist isn’t making any sales during the process of making the one larger piece for that show.

It’s important to be able to create a certain amount of balance in between how you’re putting work out there both on and off the online auction platforms too. I’ve had experiences where work can be priced at its primary market value, but because it’s on a platform or in a sale, that work may not sell. That can be very disheartening, either for the auctioneer or the artist. We’re pros, but I think creating the kind of situation or playing field in which you’re able to take as many swings as you possibly can with your work, is really one of the most important things. 

SPY: How did you develop your style? What is the “Darry Westly” look of a painting? There’s plenty of figures and people in them, are they people from your life?

DW: At first, it’s throwing things against the wall and seeing what I’m attracted to, or thinking about a certain kind of group or conversation. Again and again, the importance of being out there and socializing stands out. Having these conversations about things or observing people and culture, it informs you. My work starts with people or memories, and then it’s trying to infuse my own history and experiences from childhood. I’m trying to edify experience — the parts of my life where there have been struggles or issues or things that are pillars in my memory. 

To a certain extent, each painting is a self portrait, because it means my view of the world and the way I see something is on display. Now, I’m able to go on and build upon it, and kind of reach out. I do see painting, and art, ultimately, as a process of starting small to germinate an idea from a pinpoint to reach outward. Different artists kind of have different approaches. Some artists start broad and go smaller, you know? It’s a bit like creating a narrative.

SPY: How technical is the work when you’re starting on a new painting? If we peeled back all the layers here, would we see the little pencil marks of a sketch or do you find it on the fly?

DW: I’m definitely more on the technical side of things. I start with maybe a written word or an image that’s floating around in my head and then it’s working through the piece like photography. There’s elements of graphic design and drawing in my work that I’m implementing. There’s a sense of composition and the scene that I’m setting up. For instance, I’ll look at the word “seder,” in the Haggadah. I spent a number of weeks researching a number of illustrated examples of the book and different iconic books, and then seeing the different ways in which people approach the Seder. And then I’ll try to conceive a work from that research. I find that process of research very cool and rewarding. 

SPY: Was there an early note or piece of constructive criticism you got that helped your work going forward?

DW: A criticism that I got early on was to speed up the process of making work. I was dealing with a collector that was very critical about processes and things like that, or just like what amount of time was spent on work. I realized that each step and each part of the way that I go and do what I do is a part of who I am, it’s part of where I am. It was a really eye-opening experience in terms of how it allowed me to be able to go and evaluate for myself exactly how my work functions. What’s intrinsically important to me in terms of what gets communicated through my work and the integrity of the work. Some things obviously can take longer, some things obviously can take shorter amounts. But there is not a one-size-fits-all approach to making the types of work that you do as an artist. It’s the difference between writing an essay and writing a novel.

Everyone has a favorite comfort show. For some, it’s reruns of Chopped. Others love Sex and the City (and love to hate And Just Like That) or worship at the alter of Real Housewives. For American Anglophiles uninterested in baking or horrific murders in economically depressed villages, Monty Don documentaries are must-half-watch laundry TV. Don is a gardener and TV presenter who digs, repots, and irrigates while cultivating an audience equally interested in patches of shrubbery and ornate displays of floral wealth. His fans – legion, but polite – obsess over his fashion. Don’s wears wide-set trousers (though, specifically, never jeans), a popover shirt, suspenders, and a slightly oversized chore coat. (His big floppy hat is optional, but excellent.)

Don’s style was never meant to be the centerpiece of the show. That spot is reserved for Montaserras and hedges. But lately, it feels like he’s a fashion statement. Monty Don style – gardencore, but not to be confused with “Plant Daddy” tees – is suddenly everywhere. Guys all over New York and Los Angeles (and, to a far lesser degree, D.C.) are slippy into baggy Dickies and Chef Pants. They look like topiarists in search of one of NYC’s 2000 community gardens. 

“Overall, I feel like it’s the male version of the coastal grandma trend. Like Ina Garten, for guys,” says stylist and SPY Network member Nolan Meader. “I think of denim first before thinking of cotton or chinos.”

The look connotes a certain type of guy who is searching for the balance between looking good and trying too hard. Society blinked, and all of a sudden fashion was comfortable. Roomy pants and breathable jackets started replacing “slim fit” and cropped looks, making it more attractive to a wider base of people wanting to be stylish. It’s bringing a new player into the fashion fold. For a style-minded world that only included those willing to pour themselves into tapered pants, the new movement expanded fashion’s reach to guys open to style, but prioritizing comfort in what was previously only offering baggy tee shirts from college and sweatpants. Even brands have been expanding their options. J. Crew has been expanding its chino cuts to include the new extra-extra-wide literally called “Giant.” New brands and companies have also come to the forefront, like Gardenheir, selling the complete look from sunhats to rubbery shoes.

“I love the soft denim jacket,” says fashion collector and SPY Network member Eden Pritikin. “It’s honestly giving an effortless vibe. It says that whoever wears it doesn’t put a lot of thought into what they’re wearing, which inherently makes it even cooler and more effortless.” 

For those looking to recreate the style, putting the pieces together doesn’t take much work. 

PANTS

Dickies Original 874 Work Pant

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$29.99

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Dickies pants are the real thing. With products typically  seen on people doing actual manual labor, the company is perfectly willing to sell them to people who just want to walk around in them and drink iced coffee. Resist the temptation to get them in a lighter color. A true gardener is going to be on their hands and knees in the dirt. Put some wear into these by toiling at the local community garden or in the local park and then incorporate them into this wardrobe choice. 

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UNDERSHIRT

Hanes White Tee

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$30.00

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Never was there ever such a perfect plain white tee. This Hanes pack comes with five to circulate between, and all for just $30. That’s $6 a shirt. Find me a better deal. For this gardening ensemble, it works as a simple base layer for the summer months, and an insular one once the windy days of fall start sweeping through the city. 

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BUTTON DOWN

APC Pierre Brodee Denim Jacket

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$228.00 $380.00

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The game here is layers. The key is to be able to remove and add things as the day goes on and the sun beats down. Then, the layers get moved from body to tote bag. This shirt jacket from A.P.C. is giving “Brooklyn, mid-30s, and has a hanging plant in his home,” says Pritikin. The lighter shade of blue also breaks up the denim-on-denim look, while still looking nice with a little soil in it. That said, Pritikin suggests scratching the suspenders.

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CHORE COAT

Le Mont St. Michel Jacket

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$312.00

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Le Mont St. Michel has been the go-to original player in the chore coat game since 1913. The french workwear brand recently got a style bump a few years ago when they started making their way across the Atlantic in bigger numbers, but the craftsmanship still makes this a jacket you buy once and never need to replace.

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White sneakers are a staple, but different pairs communicate different allegiances. Stan Smiths align their wearers with a retro look and green highlights. Golden Gooses (Geese?) align their wearers with Lululemon and East Hampton. Common Projects are largely worn by 30-something creative directors open to the idea of working in tech. On and on. But there’s one white sneaker that defies cultural trigonometry.

I’ve worn white sneakers by Feiyu for years. They’re cheap, white (with a red and white stripe) and breathable with a low ankle. Whenever I see someone else in “the sneakers,” we exchange a nod or a smile or some form of social signaling. It doesn’t happen all that often, but it happens. Stan Smiths are too big to have that level of cool cache. 

Feiyu doesn’t have a huge marketing team or prominent billboards. I get mine at a karate dojo supply store in Chinatown. (Not a dojo, mind you. The place where the dojo owner goes to get dojo equipment for his dojo-ing.) I do this because James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem, the high priest of indie dance punk music, does the same thing and I love LCD Soundsystem. Feiyu’s are a word of mouth thing and James Murphy’s word is law in this regard. 

Feiyu, which means “Flying Forward,” is a roughly century-old Chinese outfit most often associated with Communist Party members and the Chinese National Football Team, which is deeply terrible. They are not just made in China, they are conceived in China. They came to America largely through Paris, where a sneaker collector named Patrice Bastian made them a thing and parkourist embraced them. (Apparently they are really good for jumping off stuff. I wouldn’t know. I can prove they also work quite well to walk to the supermarket and back.)

They are also dirt cheap. I buy mine six at a time for $72, still less than most people pay for Stan Smiths. I get about four months of use out of each pair, wearing them daily. They get to a perfect level of dirty fairly quickly, and then stay there. The rubber soles just wear out. 

Pairs are available at a markup on Stock X and directly through Feiyue, but, self-defeating as it may be, I think that’s against the spirit of the shoes. It’s about the journey to finding them. Do the work. Stop a stranger on the street and ask where they got their pair. You could make a friend in the process. 

FE LO 1920 White Sneakers

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$29.99

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These simple white sneakers give anyone downtown instant indie cred. Don’t buy them here though, buy them from word of mouth sources. 

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