Put simply, there’s nothing like a leather bag. Try as they might, faux leathers always feel more faux than leather. And while other fabrics, natural and synthetic, can make for fine bags, none can truly capture the je ne sais quoi of a leather one. The material’s ineffability means that it has been popular for many, many years and, while other options continue to proliferate, there’s no sign of demand slowing down. One analysis projected that the global leather goods market would grow from $419.3 billion in 2021 to $708.7 billion in 2030.
Style-wise, leather can connote toughness, wealth, traditionalism, modernism, small towns, big cities, and pretty much any other aesthetic in the book. Its versatility means that there’s a leather bag for everyone, and while certain brands have carved out their own identities, the material itself is recognizable enough to be recognized sans logos or labels.
Plus, leather is just a fantastic material. It’s long-lasting, attractive, and suitable for many different applications and occasions. And, while leather bags can range from a few hundred to several thousand dollars, knowing the difference between types of leather and its various treatments can ensure that whatever money you choose to pay is well-spent.
The Best Leather Bags: At a Glance
What the Experts Say
Sources within the leather industry say the differences between high- and low-quality leather — and, therefore, high- and low-quality leather bags — are vast but not all that difficult to spot. For this story, SPY interviewed tanner and leather designer Volkan Yilmaz, better known as Tanner Leatherstein; Tom Carbone, an adjunct professor in the Fashion Accessories Design program at the College for Creative Studies; and David Mesquita, co-founder of Leather Spa, a leather repair business with six locations including one inside the flagship Saks location on Fifth Avenue in New York City. They offered their advice on how to pick a leather bag worth the money.
Leatherstein touts the following as being good signals to look for when shopping: “If you see full-grain, aniline or semi-aniline finishes, vegetable-tanned, or calfskin, it is usually an indication that you’re looking at a good item,” he says. Why? Full-grain leather is the top layer of the cowhide that has the densest fiber structure and is therefore the most durable; aniline is a soluble dye that, in contrast to pigments, allows the natural texture of the leather to show through; and vegetable tanning uses natural ingredients like bark, fruits, and leaves to preserve the leather. (When compared to chromium tanning, which uses artificial ingredients, vegetable tanning takes longer and costs more.) Finally, Leatherstein says that because calf skins are younger — and younger animals have less scratches and imperfections on the outer surface — that means cleaner, smoother, and generally finer leather comes from younger animals.
A nice piece of leather, of course, can still be ruined by shoddy craftsmanship. Carbone says that turned-edge detailing, in which the edges of the leather are folded and sewn, is generally harder to pull off and more refined than unfinished or painted edges.
Mesquita adds that he also looks at the hardware on the bag to gauge its quality. “You want to make sure that it’s a metal, not zinc [which is] something very light,” he says. “If you’re buying a bag made from full-grain leather and with quality hardware on it, it’s going to be a little bit heavier.” The truth is in the heft, in other words. Any leather bag worth buying is going to feel like it’s worth the investment, too.
Tom Beckbe Leather Weekender Duffel Bag
Leatherstein says that when it comes to leather, people tend to fall into one of two camps. There are those who want their leather goods to be uniform and unchanging, and then there are those who “enjoy leather with natural characteristics and don’t mind the varying nature of the grain — the color changes and reactions of minimally finished leathers that age into dark or shinier shades, called a patina.” This bag’s full-grain leather, vegetable-tanned to accentuate the natural high and low notes of the material, is ideal for the latter group, who will appreciate how it ages over time. (Along with its high-quality leather comes high-quality brass hardware, which is heavy enough for a bag of this caliber.)
At $700, this bag is an investment, but it’s more affordable than many other options where the markup comes from the brand or the design and not the materials that determine its quality and durability.
Von Baer Essential Modern Briefcase
Why It Stands Out: As a brand, Von Baer is a stickler for high-quality leather up and down the supply chain. “They literally could track it back to the farm where the cow came from,” Carbone says of this boardroom staple. “They know every aspect of it and every aspect is controlled and environmentally sound.”
Made For: A professional who wants the best of both worlds. The minimal design of this bag makes it feel sleek and clean while the leather will look and feel more and more textured over time, accumulating evidence of long days at the office.
Ghurka Kilburn RS No. 252
Why It Stands Out: Mesquita is reticent to name specific brands, but he did say that Ghurka is known for choosing “the best pieces [of leather] to ensure there’s no lines, or what you would call imperfections, in the tannery.” The end result is leather that retains its natural color and finish but looks as smooth as any pigmented bag.
Coolest Feature: Rolling backpacks might not have been cool in middle school, but a leather duffel bag (with wheels and handle concealed until you need them) make this bag more comfortable to take on a trip than a standard duffel.
WP Standard The Meridian Messenger Bag
ROI: The full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather and solid brass hardware feel like they belong on a bag with a much higher price tag. As an introduction to the world of really nice leather things, this handsome messenger bag is tough to beat at the price.
Why It Stands Out: “Vegetable tanning is a slightly more nuanced way of tanning leather,” says Leatherstein. “At the end of the day, it’s a little more natural and gives more characteristics to the leather that age really well.” Translation: This vegetable-tanned bag will look even better with time.
Ralph Lauren Wellington Calfskin Tote
Why It Stands Out: Leatherstein says that calfskins are “naturally more beautiful and clean, and that’s why it’s usually a good sign that you’re getting a better kind of leather.” This calfskin Ralph Lauren tote proves him right.
Coolest Feature: The shoulder strap turns this humble tote into something of a messenger bag, so it’s really two bags in one. That means it’s a good deal, right?
Pegai Lee Dopp Kit
Why It Stands Out: It can class up any hotel bathroom. This dopp kit, from Leatherstein’s own brand, has antique brass hardware and a suede lining — nice touches on a nice bag that’s a definite upgrade from other similar options.
Good to Know: “You don’t necessarily need leather to have protective pigment finishes for it to have the water protection you’d want in a dopp kit,” Leatherstein says. “You can have very minimal, almost non-finished leathers that are waterproof.” In other words, there’s no need to worry about your new kit getting waterlogged.
Frequently Asked Questions About Leather Bags
Why is leather a good material for bags?
“The unfortunate (or fortunate) truth is that leather is fantastic,” says Carbone. “It’s a wonderful material with which to make lots of things.” The reasons are myriad: its durability, flexibility, appearance, and softness that are often imitated but are ultimately unparalleled.
What’s the nicest kind of leather?
Full-grain leather is the strongest, longest-lasting, and often the best-looking kind of leather.
Should I buy a leather bag secondhand?
A leather bag that’s been properly maintained can last decades, which means that finding a quality one secondhand isn’t out of the question. And given that a nice patina can take years to develop, buying a bag that’s already worn in all the right places can actually be preferable.